>> Here is the Hamler post on Knots about using the thin blade
>>
>> http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/hand-tools
/help-ln-112-scraper-plane">http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-
knots/hand-tools/help-ln-112-scraper-plane
Hamler is a genius of our time. His mind is simply beyond the rest
of us.
When he is feeling good its like standing next to a charging locomotive.
You just stand there with your eyes open trying to follow it all.
Once in a great while I get to sneak in something he hasn't thought of.
But its so rare.. hahahahaha
Anyway thin scraper blades rock! They flex.
All the original Stanley blades are very thin. I had a #85 for years
and it came with a very thin blade.
Second part of the magic is relieving the frog or blade holder
--behind the blade---.
I restored a #81 (pretty frame scraper with a wood sole, Jeff) and
made a very tight mouth, thinking this may improve performance. I made
a thick blade from an old circular saw blade and honed it.
Awful!! Chatter, hard pushing, impossible to set. EEEEEEEEEYUCK!
So I shaved a little wood from the sole behind the blade, Yup, right
where you want the support on a plane, you relieve it on a scraper.
(Stanley sometimes used a bed liner shim, that stopped 1/4" short of the
mouth leaving the blade to dangle)
And I cut out a nice thin "old handsaw" blade.
This time I didn't even need to hone it or burnish at all.
A good thorough drawfiling at 45 degrees, and who cares from accurate
degrees. Take it out the vise and OMG
Set the blade for any shaving you like. Leave it way out rank and it
hogs with wild abandon. Practically a scrub of a scraper.
Set it close and whisper thin shavings all day long.
I really have no idea who started the thicker blade craze for scrapers.
But they were wrong. Dead wrong.
yours Scott
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*******************************
Scott Grandstaff
Box 409 Happy Camp, Ca 96039
scottg@s...
http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/
http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/hpages/index.html
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