OldTools Archive

Recent Bios FAQ

264193 Pier-Rick Lamontagne <foutchibay@g...> 2017‑12‑11 (no subject)
Happy Holidays Great Galootians,

My grandfather game me the 3 saws on the right https://imgur.com/a/omKmv.
Obviously the second one have the handle to be replaced but before, I would
like to refurbish them.
I've tried to understand the process of electrolyse but I can't understand
what metal to use, I have a magnesium anode (brand new) from a water
heater, can it work ?
I've tried to clean with vinegar another saw but it kinda removed the
disston etching on the blade. So I would like to keep it if possible. And
in the end, should I polish the saws with a cotton wheel and polish to
reduce the friction created by the wood?
Since we are talking about electrolyse, I would like to do the same with
his 2 old bailey-stanley #4and block plane and a handyman #5 Or should I
lightly sandblast them ?

On the second saw, there's a curve on the blade (not corked, a real curved
in the blade itselt) And I can't read what's the brand of the saw (if
someome can help about this)


Thank you
Rick.
264195 Matthew Groves <grovesthegrey@g...> 2017‑12‑11 Re: (no subject)
Hey Rick,

Here’s my two centavos.

I would not use the Mg anode. Whatever metal piece gets used as an anode will
degrade because you’re forcing the electricity through the system. Save the Mg
for when you need to take advantage of Magnesium’s place on the galvanic series.
264197 Mick Dowling <spacelysprocket@b...> 2017‑12‑11 Re: (no subject)
Hi Rick

Here's my go to article about electrolysis;
http://www.htpaa.org.au/article-electro.php

There is a section in the article about anode selection.

Mick Dowling
Melbourne
Member, Hand Tool Preservation Association of Australia Inc.
264198 Kirk Eppler <eppler.kirk@g...> 2017‑12‑11 Re: (no subject)
On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 2:31 PM, Pier-Rick Lamontagne 
wrote:

>
> I've tried to understand the process of electrolyse but I can't understand
> what metal to use, I have a magnesium anode (brand new) from a water
> heater, can it work ?
> I've tried to clean with vinegar another saw but it kinda removed the
> disston etching on the blade. So I would like to keep it if possible. And
> in the end, should I polish the saws with a cotton wheel and polish to
> reduce the friction created by the wood?
>
>
Rick

Somewhere deep in the archives*, there are concerns about "hydrogen
embrittlement" caused by electrolysis.  I wouldn't do it based on that, I
trust that George guy on Metal.

The usual preferred method for saw cleaning is to use a flat block of wood,
and wet dry sand paper, and stroke with the length of the saw.  The block
prevents the sandbaper from dipping into the etch, and obliterating it.
The right two don't appear to have an etch, but rather printing, so you
will wipe them out either way.

I am opposed to cotton wheels, wire wheel, grinders etc, for the reason in
the above paragraph about removing the etch.

*Quick research didn't get the right link on the first try, here is a
follow on to it.

http://swingleydev.com/ot/get/64268/thread/

-- 
Kirk Eppler in Half Moon Bay, Ca
264199 Mick Dowling <spacelysprocket@b...> 2017‑12‑11 Re: Electrolysis
GGs

Ooops. Resending with an appropriate Subject line.

Mick Dowling

On 12/12/17, 9:57 am, "Mick Dowling"  wrote:

Hi Rick

Here's my go to article about electrolysis;
http://www.htpaa.org.au/article-electro.php

There is a section in the article about anode selection.

Mick Dowling
Melbourne
Member, Hand Tool Preservation Association of Australia Inc.
264200 Phil Schempf <philschempf@g...> 2017‑12‑11 Re: (no subject)
Rick-

I am leery about using electrolysis to clean something like a saw plate,
potentially removing things I'd prefer to keep.  Here is some information
on a technique that preserves much of what is on rusted saw plates to the
extent possible-

https://www.forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=6366663&highlight=autosol

Unfortunately the accompanying pictures are lost, but the results were
impressive.  Use a gentle hand.  Once it is scraped off it is very hard to
put it back on.

This site also has templates for a wide variety of saw handles that may be
helpful when you decide to replace any-

http://www.tgiag.com/saw-handle-scans.html

Phil
264202 Ken Shepard <waruba@c...> 2017‑12‑11 Re: (no subject)
I have used just about every technique imaginable to clean saw plates
including electrolysis, but IMHO the best approach is that detailed by Mark
Harrell of Bad Axe Tool Works.

http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/cleaning-a-sawplate.php

Ken Shepard

On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 5:31 PM, Pier-Rick Lamontagne 
wrote:
264207 Ed Minch <ruby1638@a...> 2017‑12‑12 Re: (no subject)
I did more than my share of electrolysis 10-15 years ago.  I found that a
stainless pot lid  (50 cents at a flea) would last a year as an anode.  The
bigger problem was the alligator clip on the end of the charger lead getting
eaten up.

Ed Minch
264217 Norm Wood <normw013@f...> 2017‑12‑12 Re: (no subject)
Hi Rick,

On 11 Dec, Pier-Rick Lamontagne wrote:

> I've tried to clean with vinegar another saw but it kinda removed the
> disston etching on the blade. So I would like to keep it if possible. And
> in the end, should I polish the saws with a cotton wheel and polish to
> reduce the friction created by the wood?

I think just a simple coat of paste wax applied by hand will do once the
saw is cleaned up.  Here's another, classic, non-electrolysis method for
cleaning, from Pete Taran's Vintage Saws website:

http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/saw_clean/saw_clean.html

Scraping of the blade is followed by light sanding, just enough to
remove any lighter rust left behind after scraping.

Regards,
Norm

Recent Bios FAQ