Not sure how to allow for the taper in a drawing. If I drew the sides, it
couldn’t show the angel, and if I drew the base I’d need to know the angle to
avoid a simple 45.
From: John M Johnston (jmjhnstn) [mailto:jmjhnst
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2017 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: [OldTools] Another project question
Can you make a full size drawing and work it out that way?
“P.S. If you do not receive this, of course it must have been miscarried;
therefore I beg you to write and let me know.” - Sir Boyle Roche, M.P.
On Oct 12, 2017, at 10:04 AM, Joseph Sullivan mailto:joe@j...> > wrote:
To go into a cabin where I have already build a British A&C-style bookcase and
will over the next three or four years, be making a settle, Morris chair and
wardrobe to match, I also need a floor lamp. My concept is for oak with a taper
top to bottom. It would be made of four pieces of q-sawn stock in the old way
so that each side shows medial ray fleck. Being long edges, it can be clamped
and glued, thus limiting tricky joinery.
The challenge is the compound angle. I'll be joining four faces that are
tapering. The closest I have come to this is in coopering, but with that I felt
my way into the angles with a paper pattern and a sliding T-bevel, and it was a
single angle throughout, with no taper. Here, I don't know where to start.
Looked on-line and there is a page with a calculator for pyramids etc., but it
is for a table saw which I don't use, and gives angles I don't quite follow.
You would think that the angle of the bade to the table would be the one I need
to plane my angles, but I can't quite see how to get that number from that