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260541 William Ghio <bghio@m...> 2016‑11‑28 Delicate joinery
Making a jewelry tray — 3/16th material. For the cross pieces I am planning to
have them die into V-notches in the long pieces as I have seen in period
furniture. Question is, what is the best way to make the incised V? I am
thinking I will just mark and carve w/ a chisel, but if anyone has experience,
knows a trick or knows what tool was used historically, I would love the input.

Bill
260542 "John M Johnston (jmjhnstn)" <jmjhnstn@m...> 2016‑11‑28 Re: Delicate joinery
Bill, I'm working (occasionally) on an 18th century shaving box with exactly the
same challenge.

My thought at this point is to make a deep knife line at the center point of the
V, then use a shoulder or rabbet plane tipped on its edge at 45 degrees to take
a couple of passes with the edge of the plane riding in the knife line, flip the
work around and take a couple (or however many are needed) of passes to make the
other side of the V.

This idea came to me when watching Don McConnel's excellent DVD on making
moulding. It looks like it would not be too difficult to control the angle and
the depth of the V in this manner. I'd thought about the chisel route as well
but using a plane seems like there would be more control.

Cheers
John

"P.S. If you do not receive this, of course it must have been miscarried;
therefore I beg you to write and let me know." - Sir Boyle Roche, M.P.

William Ghio wrote:
Making a jewelry tray - 3/16th material. For the cross pieces I am planning to
have them die into V-notches in the long pieces as I have seen in period
furniture. Question is, what is the best way to make the incised V? I am
thinking I will just mark and carve w/ a chisel, but if anyone has experience,
knows a trick or knows what tool was used historically, I would love the input.
260543 William Ghio <bghio@m...> 2016‑11‑28 Re: Delicate joinery
> On Nov 28, 2016, at 12:50 PM, John M Johnston (jmjhnstn) 
wrote:
> 
> Bill, I'm working (occasionally) on an 18th century shaving box with exactly
the same challenge.
> 
> My thought at this point is to make a deep knife line at the center point of
the V, then use a shoulder or rabbet plane tipped on its edge at 45 degrees to
take a couple of passes with the edge of the plane riding in the knife line,
flip the work around and take a couple (or however many are needed) of passes to
make the other side of the V.
> 
> This idea came to me when watching Don McConnel's excellent DVD on making
moulding. It looks like it would not be too difficult to control the angle and
the depth of the V in this manner. I'd thought about the chisel route as well
but using a plane seems like there would be more control.
> 
> Cheers
> John
> 
> “P.S. If you do not receive this, of course it must have been miscarried;
therefore I beg you to write and let me know.” - Sir Boyle Roche, M.P.
> 
> William Ghio wrote:
> Making a jewelry tray — 3/16th material. For the cross pieces I am planning to
have them die into V-notches in the long pieces as I have seen in period
furniture. Question is, what is the best way to make the incised V? I am
thinking I will just mark and carve w/ a chisel, but if anyone has experience,
knows a trick or knows what tool was used historically, I would love the input.

I had considered the method you propose and I guess I didn’t not think it thru.
I will try prototyping w/ both methods. I need to have this done by Xmas so
can’t wait for you to do the prototyping and report. 8>)
I have the little Lie Nielsen 1/2 inch shoulder plane (no longer made, which
makes no sense to me) which should be perfect.

Bill
260544 Ed Minch <ruby1638@a...> 2016‑11‑28 Re: Delicate joinery
Bill

You could add a small ramp that you can switch from left to right to guide the
blade to the right spot

Ed Minch
260545 Michael Blair <branson2@s...> 2016‑11‑28 Re: Delicate joinery
The center cut is rather important -- just like in chip carving.  With a
little care, a veiner chisel should do the trick -- one of those tiny
carver's veiners.  But I could swear that I have a v-groove plane around
here somewhere. 

Mike in Woodland
260547 Claudio DeLorenzi <claudio@d...> 2016‑11‑28 Re: Delicate joinery
Re Veiner to make a V groove
Weird, but I was trying to do just that on the weekend. Man, this group!
My veiners are very sharp, and my practice cuts in cherry were not even or
straight, and I quickly gave up trying with that technique as a bad idea.
So I figured I'd try a straight knife with a fairly thin freshly sharpened
blade. I used my marking knife.
A straight steel rule and a sharp knife was good. That was much more
accurate for me. Practice on a bit of scrap so you can figure out how much
pressure you need (I was going cross grain). Would be more difficult with
the grain I suppose.
Cheers from Waterloo
Claudio
Ps, to sharpen, I set up a stick end up in my vice at the correct height to
get the bevel I want on my knife. Lay the knife flat on the end grain blade
barely over the edge. I use one of those little diamond paddles, resting
the paddle heel on the bench as I slide the small diamond plate along the
blade. You'll get a nice smooth even bevel on the blade. Much more accurate
than trying to slide your little knife at 11 degrees or whatever.
If you don't have one a set of these wonderful EZ Lap paddles (a great
present), stick some very fine wet or dry sand paper to a small stick with
double sided tape ( what I used to do before I got the paddles). By the
way, I find more uses for these things all the time. I've had mine for a
couple years now, well used, and they still work great even though I use
them each week.
260548 William Ghio <bghio@m...> 2016‑11‑28 Re: Delicate joinery
> On Nov 28, 2016, at 1:11 PM, William Ghio  wrote:
> 
> 
>> On Nov 28, 2016, at 12:50 PM, John M Johnston (jmjhnstn) 
wrote:
>> 
>> Bill, I'm working (occasionally) on an 18th century shaving box with exactly
the same challenge.
>> 
>> My thought at this point is to make a deep knife line at the center point of
the V, then use a shoulder or rabbet plane tipped on its edge at 45 degrees to
take a couple of passes with the edge of the plane riding in the knife line,
flip the work around and take a couple (or however many are needed) of passes to
make the other side of the V.
>> 
>> This idea came to me when watching Don McConnel's excellent DVD on making
moulding. It looks like it would not be too difficult to control the angle and
the depth of the V in this manner. I'd thought about the chisel route as well
but using a plane seems like there would be more control.
>> 
>> 
>> William Ghio wrote:
>> Making a jewelry tray — 3/16th material. For the cross pieces I am planning
to have them die into V-notches in the long pieces as I have seen in period
furniture. Question is, what is the best way to make the incised V? I am
thinking I will just mark and carve w/ a chisel, but if anyone has experience,
knows a trick or knows what tool was used historically, I would love the input.
> 
> I had considered the method you propose and I guess I didn’t think it thru. I
will try prototyping w/ both methods. I need to have this done by Xmas so can’t
wait for you to do the prototyping and report. 8>)
> I have the little Lie Nielsen 1/2 inch shoulder plane (no longer made, which
makes no sense to me) which should be perfect.

OK, I played w/ some 1/4” poplar and I think the chisel is the way to go. I feel
I have more control — easier to get an even facet — with the chisel. W/ the
shoulder plane you have to work from both sides to the center to keep from
breaking out the far edge. My material is 1 1/8” wide and a wide chisel can take
it all in one go. I haven’t tried Ed’s suggestion of a ramp but that may be
useful too. The V gouge was the worst choice. I found it very hard (i.e., did
not happen) to get an even vee.

I have cut sticks for the sides @ 1/4 from a mahogany plank, the interior
partitions will be the 3/16th stuff. I am making two trays, fortunately to go
into an already existing drawer, so no cabinet making involved. But about 90
joints to go….
260551 RH Hutchins <rhhutchins@h...> 2016‑11‑28 Re: Delicate joinery
Howdy, Bill!

Working with material that thin, I would think that a very sharp chisel 
led into a knife edge at the center and guided by a 45° block would be 
the answer.  Your V-notch, following a rule of thirds, would have to 
leave 1/16" uncut.  That's mighty fine work that I wouldn't attempt with 
my clumsy skills, but I have no doubt that you will pull it off.

Please take pics and post them when you tell us how you did it.

Bob Hutchins
Temple, TX, USA
260549 Don Schwartz <dks@t...> 2016‑11‑29 Re: Delicate joinery
On 2016-11-28 3:26 PM, William Ghio wrote:
> OK, I played w/ some 1/4” poplar and I think the chisel is the way to go. I
feel I have more control — easier to get an even facet — with the chisel. W/ the
shoulder plane you have to work from both sides to the center to keep from
breaking out the far edge. My material is 1 1/8” wide and a wide chisel can take
it all in one go. I haven’t tried Ed’s suggestion of a ramp but that may be
useful too. The V gouge was the worst choice. I found it very hard (i.e., did
not happen) to get an even vee.
>
> I have cut sticks for the sides @ 1/4 from a mahogany plank, the interior
partitions will be the 3/16th stuff. I am making two trays, fortunately to go
into an already existing drawer, so no cabinet making involved. But about 90
joints to go….
Interesting to hear your experience. Did you make a center-line stop cut 
before the angled cuts?

Don

-- 
Let's all get normal at the luau - 'Frizz' Fuller
260552 "John M Johnston (jmjhnstn)" <jmjhnstn@m...> 2016‑11‑29 Re: Delicate joinery
Bill, I'm using this mid-19th century shaving box as a jumping off point for my
late 18th century shaving box.  You can see that the dividers are quite thin,
and every intersection is a V groove.  Looking at the joints in this box, I
would say the grooves are cut by a chisel, and the mating ends of the dividers
by a chisel or knife.  Neither are perfect.

http://galootcentral.com/component/option,com_copperminevis/Itemid,2/pl
ace,displayimage/album,682/pos,3/">http://galootcentral.com/component/option,com
_copperminevis/Itemid,2/place,displayimage/album,682/pos,3/

Cheers,
John

John M. Johnston
jmjhnstn@m...
“P.S. If you do not receive this, of course it must have been miscarried;
therefore I beg you to write and let me know.” - Sir Boyle Roche, M.P.
260553 Bill Ghio <bghio@m...> 2016‑11‑29 Re: Delicate joinery
Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 28, 2016, at 7:25 PM, Don Schwartz  wrote:
> 
>> On 2016-11-28 3:26 PM, William Ghio wrote:
>> OK, I played w/ some 1/4” poplar and I think the chisel is the way to go. I
feel I have more control — easier to get an even facet — with the chisel. W/ the
shoulder plane you have to work from both sides to the center to keep from
breaking out the far edge. My material is 1 1/8” wide and a wide chisel can take
it all in one go. I haven’t tried Ed’s suggestion of a ramp but that may be
useful too. The V gouge was the worst choice. I found it very hard (i.e., did
not happen) to get an even vee.
>> 
>> I have cut sticks for the sides @ 1/4 from a mahogany plank, the interior
partitions will be the 3/16th stuff. I am making two trays, fortunately to go
into an already existing drawer, so no cabinet making involved. But about 90
joints to go….
> Interesting to hear your experience. Did you make a center-line stop cut
before the angled cuts?

Did a knife cut in the center then marked the edges.  Anything more than a knife
cut and I would risk breaking the piece.

Bill
260554 Bill Ghio <bghio@m...> 2016‑11‑29 Re: Delicate joinery
Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 28, 2016, at 7:55 PM, John M Johnston (jmjhnstn)  wrote:
> 
> Bill, I'm using this mid-19th century shaving box as a jumping off point for
my late 18th century shaving box.  You can see that the dividers are quite thin,
and every intersection is a V groove.  Looking at the joints in this box, I
would say the grooves are cut by a chisel, and the mating ends of the dividers
by a chisel or knife.  Neither are perfect.
> 
> http://galootcentral.com/component/option,com_copperminevis/Itemid,2/
place,displayimage/album,682/pos,3/">http://galootcentral.com/component/option,c
om_copperminevis/Itemid,2/place,displayimage/album,682/pos,3/

It is clear that not all joints will be perfect! It looks like the dividers in
your example are even skinnier than what I am attempting. I find it amazing that
people worked to such tolerances with only hand tools. I use the b**ds*w to get
me started. OTOH, we do have more trouble sourcing good wood these days. The
Mahogany I am using has been sitting in my shop for about three years. Before
that, it sat in a local barn for about 25 years. The slab is quite flat and
square. Still, two of the slices took a decided curve as they came off the saw.

Bill
260559 paul womack <pwomack@p...> 2016‑11‑29 Re: Delicate joinery
Michael Blair wrote:
> The center cut is rather important -- just like in chip carving.  With a
> little care, a veiner chisel should do the trick -- one of those tiny
> carver's veiners.  But I could swear that I have a v-groove plane around
> here somewhere.

I *do* have a tiny v-groove plane, but it's definitely user made.

Worse, I don't see how it can work - a flat pointed 'V' blade
tries to cut away the leading/bottom of the waste before
freeing the trailing/upper part of the waste.

When making a V cut with a carvers' tool, it is
(I eventually realised) important that the leading edges
of the 'V' lean forward beyond the vertical, either by angling
the tool, grind, or both.

Like this;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfwYEW7yTFY

(I would welcome confirmation or denial from people
with carving experience)

    BugBear
260560 paul womack <pwomack@p...> 2016‑11‑29 Re: Delicate joinery
William Ghio wrote:
> My material is 1 1/8” wide and a wide chisel can take it all in one go.

Hmm. I was thinking (wrongly) of making very long V's, but I was wrong.

Your point about a single cut seems quite important.

This, in essence, is how letter carvers make the 'V' shape cuts; that form the
letters.
Relief cut on the centre line, then cut both sides.

  BugBear
260562 "yorkshireman@y..." <yorkshireman@y...> 2016‑11‑29 Re: Delicate joinery
Paul points out…

>>I *do* have a tiny v-groove plane, but it's definitely user made.

>>Worse, I don't see how it can work - a flat pointed 'V' blade
>>tries to cut away the leading/bottom of the waste before
>>freeing the trailing/upper part of the waste.


But, maybe, it’s only used to refine a V that has been chiselled already.  As
already noted, using a veiner for this task is very likely to leave a less than
perfect result, but a pass or two with a plane could give a perfect trim?

Richard Wilson
Yorkshireman Galoot
260563 "yorkshireman@y..." <yorkshireman@y...> 2016‑11‑29 Re: Delicate joinery
Has anyone considered using a picture framers mount cutter for this?  It’s a
sharp knife designed to cut a 45 degree (or other) bevel in thin homogenous
material, whilst running along a straight edge or guide.

Given control of the cut, so that a couple of passes were possible, it would
seem to be a good fit for the task in hand.


Richard Wilson
Yorkshireman galoot
260564 Matthew Groves <grovesthegrey@g...> 2016‑11‑29 Re: Delicate joinery
What are those wooden pieces called that guide a chisel to make a perfect angled
cut? used in sashmaking a lot.

Would those work in this application?

Matthew Groves
Springfield, MO
260565 Kirk Eppler <eppler.kirk@g...> 2016‑11‑29 Re: Delicate joinery
On Tue, Nov 29, 2016 at 12:31 PM, yorkshireman@y... <
yorkshireman@y...> wrote:

> Has anyone considered using a picture framers mount cutter for this?  It’s
> a sharp knife designed to cut a 45 degree (or other) bevel in thin
> homogenous material, whilst running along a straight edge or guide.


Good grief, that is flaming brilliant!

I have one of these
http://www.logangraphic.com/product/board-mounted-mat-
cutters/logan-301-1-compact-classic/">http://www.logangraphic.com/product/board-
mounted-mat-cutters/logan-301-1-compact-classic/

Which uses this as the cutter (fixed depth cut, may need some shims to stop
its depth early)
http://images.utrechtart.com/products/optionLarge/Logan/33269.jpg

Only issue is it only cuts one side at a time.  I also have a 90° cutter
somewhere.

This cutter is made for use without their "rail" system, and isn't as easy
to use.   I learned on this, then upgraded to the rail system after
screwing up a few $10 mat boards.
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTg0WDMwMA==/z/sboAAOSwDk5UAC-u/$_35.JPG?set_id=2

The free hand V Groove cutter is a bit hard to hold as well, in my
opinion.  But cuts both sides at the same time.
http://www.artandframing.com.au/images/logan%20V-Groover%206000.jpg


-- 
Kirk Eppler in HMB, CA, prepping for this Sunday's FleaBAG event.
260566 William Ghio <bghio@m...> 2016‑11‑29 Re: Delicate joinery
> On Nov 29, 2016, at 3:45 PM, Matthew Groves  wrote:
> 
> What are those wooden pieces called that guide a chisel to make a perfect
angled cut? used in sashmaking a lot.
> 
> Would those work in this application?

I would call that thing a miter template and that is almost what Ed suggested
when he said:


        You could add a small ramp that you can switch from left to right to
guide the blade to the right spot

	Ed Minch

I think a fence added to the “ramp” will give the necessary alignment. Wanted to
try it today but got no time in the shop today and still have unfinished
administrative tasks yet to complete today.

Bill
260567 "Ray Sheley Jr." <rsheley@r...> 2016‑11‑29 Re: Delicate joinery
On 28 Nov 2016, at 17:32, William Ghio  wrote:

Making a jewelry tray — 3/16th material. For the cross pieces I am planning 
to have them die into V-notches in the long pieces as I have seen in period 
furniture. Question is, what is the best way to make the incised V? I am 
thinking I will just mark and carve w/ a chisel, but if anyone has 
experience, knows a trick or knows what tool was used historically, I would 
love the input.

Bill

One half baked thought occurred to me.

I would consider making a guide rail cut at 45°, then put a strip or two of 
blue painters tape along the upper outside portion of a V-Gouge chisel to 
raise the cutting tip away from the surface of the guide rail. leaving the 
bottom surface free of tape a bit more than the desired depth of cut.
Position gouge and secure the guide rail and make several rail guided cuts 
to make your Vee.

A bit more control and guidance of your chisel without getting to nuts about 
fixturing.
260568 Michael Blair <branson2@s...> 2016‑11‑29 Re: Delicate joinery
> Has anyone considered using a picture framers mount cutter for this?  It's a
sharp knife designed to cut a 45 degree (or other) bevel in thin homogenous
material, whilst running along a straight edge or guide.

Hadn't thought of that, but it would work.  A half inch bar 1 1/4 inch
wide, with one side bevelled to 45 degrees would also work (that was the
working part of the old mat cutters I used to use) 

Mike in Woodland
260645 William Ghio <bghio@m...> 2016‑12‑08 Re: Delicate joinery
GG’s

Recently I asked a question about making dividers for a jewelry tray in very
thin material and, of course, got several thoughtful answers. Part of he
original exchange is at the bottom if you want a refresher. I have been working
on the tray and documented my solution. I put comments at the below each photo
to explain the process. I start out w/ the jigs I made then show them in use.
The first few pics may not make sense till you see the rest.

Layout is critical. I had to discard several pieces because of misalignment.
Including one of my dovetailed end pieces. The photo of the finished piece is
deceptive because it shows it from the best angle. There are several
misalignments that show when viewed from directly above. I think this is a poor
joint for the purpose at hand. It will work best where you are dividing a single
row, For the multiple rows I would use half-lap joints to make a grid. I cut
everything and fit it all. Ten I glued the outside frame and things shifted. I
had to recut  one row of partition pieces. Everything looked good. Moving on to
glue up and things didn’t seem to line up as well. Live and learn. This is a
sliding till for earrings (SWMBO has more earrings than I have chisels!) that
will go over a tray that will be twice as deep. Luckily that will be for
necklaces and will require far fewer dividers. I started on it today so should
make Christmas...

Pics & notes are here:  https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../alb
ums/72157675866756562">https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../albums/721576
75866756562

Bill
260647 Ed Minch <ruby1638@a...> 2016‑12‑08 Re: Delicate joinery
Bill

Looks like the method has promise.  If you did it on a regular basis I think you
could get very good at it.  It also looks like you picked a particularly
ambitious project to try it out on - I usually see perhaps 2-3 of these joints
in a box.

Ed Minch
260654 RH Hutchins <rhhutchins@h...> 2016‑12‑09 Re: Delicate joinery
Beautifully done, Bill!

bob hutchins
260671 "yorkshireman@y..." <yorkshireman@y...> 2016‑12‑10 Re: [SPAM?] Delicate joinery
Bill does some excellent work on an earrings tray… 

I have a couple of comments / questions.

First off -  for this application in particular, the benefit of the v groove is
that you can thin the top edges almost to nil without affecting the appearance
of the joint.  This is not true of, say, a halving joint, which would show
unsightly gaps, or indeed of any other joint I can think up for the application.
A fine top edge also helps to disguise any irregularity in the joint, as the
gaps are less apparent.

Second, may I ask, (for the depth is not apparent,) how easy it is for the user
to pick out something small from one of the compartments?  A friend made up a
similar arrangement, and found that some packing was needed in the corners to
allow someone to pick out small items.   Very old cash drawers used wooden
infill - imagine a bowl that has been cut down to being a squared off fit into a
pigeon hole.

I foresee some of this type of work in my future of restoring several old boxes,
and making more, so I’m grateful for the idiot proof photos, and what a really
nice result.


Richard Wilson
Yorkshireman Galoot
in an unseasonably warm 12 degrees C Northumberland
260673 William Ghio <bghio@m...> 2016‑12‑10 Re: [SPAM?] Delicate joinery
> On Dec 10, 2016, at 5:40 AM, yorkshireman@y... wrote:
> 
> Bill does some excellent work on an earrings tray… 
> 
> I have a couple of comments / questions.
> 
> First off -  for this application in particular, the benefit of the v groove
is that you can thin the top edges almost to nil without affecting the
appearance of the joint.  This is not true of, say, a halving joint, which would
show unsightly gaps, or indeed of any other joint I can think up for the
application.   A fine top edge also helps to disguise any irregularity in the
joint, as the gaps are less apparent.

One thing I found is that you can adjust, to a very small degree, the V shape on
the end of a piece to get a better fit if too much gap shows.
> 
> Second, may I ask, (for the depth is not apparent,) how easy it is for the
user to pick out something small from one of the compartments?  A friend made up
a similar arrangement, and found that some packing was needed in the corners to
allow someone to pick out small items.

This is a concern, but her fingers are much smaller than mine and she won’t be
seeing it till it is done… so we will just have to see. For the bottom till,
which will have an additional 20 cubbies for earrings, the depth will have to
remain since the smaller till must slide across it and you can’t have things
rising above the top surface. The top till is only 7 1/2 inches wide and if
necessary I can take it to the bandsaw and lop off one dovetail worth of width
to make access easier. At least that is what I keep telling myself. The
remainder of the bottom till is cut up into 7 1/2 inch long compartments for
necklaces and will be much easier to construct, altho it still involves 48
joints.


> I foresee some of this type of work in my future of restoring several old
boxes, and making more, so I’m grateful for the idiot proof photos,

The interior sticks are hard to layout since they are shorter than the outside
pieces and end in V’s to fit grooves in the outside pieces.  Using dividers to
layout the centerlines for the V’s is very precise, however once the V was cut
referencing from the bottom of the V to layout other pieces was a bit sketchy. I
fit the long internal sticks into their V’s, then laid a rule across from side
to side to get a layout that was square across. This time, before making the V
cut, I have made a fine pencil line right at the V’s knifed centerline. This
will give me a more precise reference for verifying and adjusting the layout of
the middle pieces. A god bit of this is adjusted visually on the fly so make
sure you have a bit of excess stock. I have to recut several pieces.

Bill
260675 "Frank Filippone" <red735i@v...> 2016‑12‑11 Re: [SPAM?] Delicate joinery
Make her a matching set of wooden Tweezers to reach "down there".

Frank Filippone
Red735i@v...

This is a concern, but her fingers are much smaller than mine and she won’t be
seeing it till it is done… so we will just have to see.
260676 William Ghio <bghio@m...> 2016‑12‑11 Re: [SPAM?] Delicate joinery
Yeah, BugBear put me onto some soft touch plastic tweezers but I like the idea
of making them out of wood. Will just have to wait and see if there is a need.
260698 William Ghio <bghio@m...> 2016‑12‑13 Re: Delicate joinery
Several of you have been interested in this project (see below if not familiar)
so I wanted to give an up date. I built the second tray today and it went
better. Building the first tray — or sliding till — I was not happy w/ the
alignment of the cross pieces and had to remake several to get even a semblance
of straight lines. For the till I gang marked all the pieces and cut the
joinery. Being hand cut, not all the V’s lined up perfectly. For the lower tray
I only marked the outside edges and before cutting the V’s I carried the marks
to the top of the piece —
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../31610219075/in/album-721576
75866756562/">https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../31610219075/in/album-7
2157675866756562/

This way I could lay a square across and mark the intermediate pieces. Even if I
had an error in the cutting I was more likely to get a straight line this way —
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../31463465482/in/album-721576
75866756562/">https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../31463465482/in/album-7
2157675866756562/

For pieces that did not go all the way across, a square from the outside edge
gave me the straight joint —
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../31463465432/in/album-721576
75866756562/">https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../31463465432/in/album-7
2157675866756562/

In these pics the lower tray is just hand fitted. I have marked each piece as to
orientation and location and differences, too small to see, exist and can only
be seen in the actual placement of the piece. Doing a glue up of this many
pieces all at once you need to know exacally where they go. This lower tray was
a bit easier to do since half of the compartments are larger to accommodate
necklaces.

This pic shows the two trays as they will sit in the drawer SWMBO uses to store
her jewelry —
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../31494361461/in/album-721576
75866756562/">https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../31494361461/in/album-7
2157675866756562/

Finally, several people commented on the potential difficulty of fishing
earrings out of too deep a cubby. I tried it and not a problem —
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../31494361461/in/album-721576
75866756562/">https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../31494361461/in/album-7
2157675866756562/

The bottom tray is now glued up. Only have the planning of the top surfaces
flush, trimming the bottom board flush and applying a finish. It will be done
for Christmas!


Bill
260715 Mike DeLong <mpdelong@g...> 2016‑12‑14 Re: Delicate joinery
Bill,
All I can say is WOW!

I've followed this thread with much interest, and will archive it for
future reference. By my standards it was a very ambitious project, and by
any standards it appears to have a very excellent and impressive outcome.

Congratulations and Merry Christmas,
Mike

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