I am now the proud keeper of a North Bros, Yankee No44, pat jan 25, 92, june 6,
05, and mar 5, 06 in decent operational condition except for the chuck, which is
solid. To free it, I am working on the assumption that the chuck is the push
collar type, not the threaded collar type. Is this correct? I am presently at
the soak in penetrant stage, and don't want to proceed past the heat stage
without confirmation, as I have no spare Yankee push drill chucks at the moment.
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On Monday, September 12, 2016, Erik Levin via OldTools <
oldtools@s...> wrote:

> To free it, I am working on the assumption that the chuck is the push
> collar type, not the threaded collar type. Is this correct?


I am not sure.ni gave one very old push drill similar to that that has a
twist, while the other similar ones have a push.  Can't verify for a few
days tho, patent dates, etc, to say which is which. But I believe it is my
oldest.

Kirk in HMB, CA, where a very minor grab occurred over the weekend.


-- 
Sent from my iPad, apologies for the Auto Correct errors.
Kirk

On Monday, September 12, 2016, Erik Levin via OldTools <
oldtools@s...> wrote:

>To free it, I am working on the assumption that the chuck is the push
collar type, not the threaded collar type. Is this correct? 

Yes, it is correct. Three jaw chucks are available, long after market. 
You might want to check out: 
http://www.oldtoolsnstuff.com/yankee%20style%20push%20drills%20info%20page.htm


Mike in Woodland

All righty, then. It would appear that the chuck is most likely a screw tight
rather than a sprung, as it has the three knurl bands with two grooves. This is
what I was not sure of. Thanks to Jack and the others that direct emailed me
with information. I have not possessed a '44 before, and didn't know if the
chuck styling was the same as the other yankees I have (a motley crew, they
are).
I'll give it a few more days with penetrating oil, then, if needed, heat and
maybe liquid nitrogen. There is a bit in it, and it is free to rotate a few
degrees since the first application of penetrant. This means that, most likely,
either the threads are rusted solid, or the collar was cranked so hard that it
galled in, and, if the oil doesn't free it, 100 or so degrees difference between
the collar and the body will give maybe 0.01mm clearance, and, hopefully, free
it up.

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Another data point for the bands of knurl indicating a screw collar. After a few
days of soak, and light heat with a heat gun, out came the leather patch and
channel locks, with the shank of the chuck held in a hole in split a chunk of
wood in the vise. A little working back and forth and motion.
Now, the question become: How does it get disassembled? Once the collar moved,
the need for actual derusting became apparent. Once apart, I can clean the parts
or make replacements for those that are too far gone.
Any ideas on how to get it apart? *** This message was sent from a convenience
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On Wed, Sep 14, 2016 at 4:51 AM, Erik Levin via OldTools <
oldtools@s...> wrote:

>  How does it get disassembled?


http://trestore.wkfinetools.com/boringTools/ypDrill-thompson/ypDrill-1.asp
 (From Jim T, gotta be good, tho not a 44)




http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?139820-Yankee-Push-Drill-Resources

Has a few data points, not sure how good



-- 



Kirk Eppler in HMB, sortA

I have been fiddling with this chuck for a few days to get it somewhat cleaned
out enough to try to figure out how it can be disassembled.
These pictures show the chuck as it is now:
 

https://s25.postimg.org/8m3hcw7sv/chuck_back.png
https://s25.postimg.org/hie9gtyf3/chuck_front.png
https://s25.postimg.org/hjo7a908v/chuck_front_2.png
https://s25.postimg.org/ft568ripr/chuck_side.png

The collar rotates 3-1/2 times from the stop at full lock to stop at full free.
The threading is 40TPI, as measured by total travel of the collar over 3-1/2
revolutions. The two pictures from the front show that it is a ball driven by
the collar (inside) and there is not a significant gap between the collar and
the body. From the back, there is a gap visible between the collar and body, and
what at first look appeared to be a sprung ring inside to hold it together.
Close examination leads me to believe my first look was wrong, as what appeared
to be an overlapped gap, like a scarf jointed key ring, isn't.


The stereo views below show that a bit better (cross-eye stereo):


https://s25.postimg.org/63hsc7m2n/chuck_wide_stereo_small.png
https://s25.postimg.org/kwwfwyttr/chuck_stereo_close_2_small.png
https://s25.postimg.org/m0gk8xegv/chuck_stereo_close_small.png

I am wondering if maybe this is press fit together? Or if that IS a scarf
jointed ring at the back and it is so rusty/grimy/tight I just can't get a
purchase on it?

Any ideas how to get this apart? I want to both do up a CAD model, since I am
that kind of geek, and clean the parts thoroughly of rust. If I need to, once it
is apart, I can also make repair parts. The rest of the tool is in good, though
not new, shape, so it is a user if I can clean up the chuck, not a museum piece.

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Well, no new input on the list but a couple direct emails. Thanks to those
people for a few pointers.


Summary: the patent indicates that the ring is held in place by forming the end
of the collar after it is inserted. A members experience indicates that the only
way to get it apart is to remove the end of the collar to get the ring out, and
that reassembly may be impractical.

Now I need to decide if, for what is a user, a) I go with the existing chuck as
is, with the rust and roughness, but firm holding, b) I adapt a spring collar
chuck from another yankee, c) make a new chuck to match, which might be
interesting in its own right, or d) open the end of the collar to get it apart
and figure a way to hold it together, possibly pressing an annular ring into the
end.

Any input will be welcome and considered.

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