OldTools Archive
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259651 | Dwight Beebe <dwb1124@g...> | 2016‑07‑22 | Saw teeth and a Millers Falls No. 4 |
GGs, I'm curious to know if I can change a saw to cut from push stroke to pull stroke by simply retoothing it in reverse. I have a user made arborist's saw with a "Legal Tender" mark on it. The blade is curved and the mark is offset, which leads me to think it's a repurposed hand saw blade. Legal Tender saws were sold as a private brand, but I haven't done any real research. Was taken aback to see it come up when I was cleaning the blade. I wondered how many of these saw blades it would take to buy a beer... Many arborist folding hand saws, e.g., Silky Boy, are pull saws and I like how they work in green wood. I'm making spoons these days and my buck saw can be too big and unwieldy for most sizes of bolts I want to use for stock. The second question has to do with the chuck on the MF No. 4. How does it work? Mine is present, but I don't see how a bit is held tightly. I don't have bits for the drill, so I don't have any to play with. Where they special bits? The chuck unscrews, but there is simply a hollow shaft beneath it. Is there something missing on this drill? Thanks in advance, Dwight |
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259652 | Mark Pfeifer <markpfeifer@i...> | 2016‑07‑22 | Re: Saw teeth and a Millers Falls No. 4 |
i know it’s heretical to say this, but for cutting bolts of green stuff, especially when I’m breaking down a branch with a bunch of forks (as in for spoons) I don’t mind a pull instead of a push. For anything else, especially working square stock, can’t imagine using pull….. |
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259653 | Charlie Driggs <cdinde@v...> | 2016‑07‑22 | Re: Saw teeth and a Millers Falls No. 4 |
Dwight, I'm curious to know if I can change a saw to cut from push stroke to pull stroke by simply retoothing it in reverse. I have a user made arborist's saw … |
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259657 | <roygriggs@c...> | 2016‑07‑22 | Re: Saw teeth and a Millers Falls No. 4 |
GG, My take on the MF No. 4 is that it never had a "chuck" it simply accepted a drill bit with a base the size of the socket on the drill and the keeper nut was made to clamp on the bit where it tapered. Using the same bits you used in a push-drill. I have only ever seen one type of bit in a No. 4 and it was just a pointed bit with no cutting flutes or anything. I also have another drill that is the same as a No. 4 but is not a MF and it is the same. JMTC... back under the porch... roy griggs roygriggs@c... |
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259660 | Glen Canaday <gcanaday@g...> | 2016‑07‑23 | Re: Saw teeth and a Millers Falls No. 4 |
The MF #4 came with a set of diamond-shaped spade bits of different sizes. However, they all had a 3/32 shank size. In modern bits, it accepts only that size twist drill. The "chuck" is only a hole in the spindle with sawn (or milled) slots to allow it to act as jaws..essentially, an early collet. It had a threaded nut that was tapered on the inside to apply closing pressure. There are probably a bazillion pictures on the net of them; my personal unit is a bad example as it has a collet on there from something else entirely...I think, and so I've been told. The 4D came with an actual chuck in tiny size and was able to grab different shank sizes. Glen of the North Message: 2 Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2016 16:23:43 -0500 From: |
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259661 | Dwight Beebe <dwb1124@g...> | 2016‑07‑24 | Re: Saw teeth and a Millers Falls No. 4 |
Interesting. After reading Glen's post, I went back and took a closer look (with a set of magnifying lenses) at the drill. The spindle on mine has no slots in it. It is threaded to the end. There does not appear to be anything within the spindle that might hold a shaped bit to keep it from spinning if it were simply inserted into the spindle. The threaded nut screws all the way down onto the spindle. I have not measured the inside diameter of either the spindle or the nut, but will to compare. Thanks to all for the information. Regards, Dwight |
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