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| 86598 | "Michael C. Recchione" recchione | Nov-22-2000 | sharpening scorp? |
Esteemed Galoots, I received a Swiss Made scorp for my Birthday a few days ago - one of the one handed ones - and am trying to figure out how to sharpen it. It doesn't seem to have a bevel at all that I could use as a reference for honing. Does anyone know how these are supposed to be sharpened? Bevel on the outside? Inside? Both? Also - is this supposed to cut like a gouge, a knife or a scraper? I apologize if this is off-topic, but a scorp is a very old tool, even if it is new. (IMHO). Thanks in advance for any replies. - Mike | |||
| 86609 | estuary@w... (Larry Holland) | Nov-23-2000 | Re: sharpening scorp? |
Mike inquires about sharpening a scorp... > >I received a Swiss Made scorp for my Birthday a few days ago - one of >the one handed ones - and am trying to figure out how to sharpen it. It >doesn't seem to have a bevel at all that I could use as a reference for >honing. Does anyone know how these are supposed to be sharpened? If the bevel exists, it should be on the outside. An axe sharpening stone works well on scorps and adzes. Disc shaped stones, usually one side fine grit, the other rough. You can pick one up at any reputable hardware store. When you get it worked down to where there's a burr on the inside edge, a sharpening steel works well in rolling off the burr. Try to work across the grain when using a scrop, especially if you're being very aggressive, and it's best to work from the outside in. H...hoping to light the forge Larry Holland estuary@w... | |||
| 86612 | bugbear@c... (Paul Womack) | Nov-23-2000 | Re: sharpening scorp? |
> > Mike inquires about sharpening a scorp... > > > > >I received a Swiss Made scorp for my Birthday a few days ago - one of > >the one handed ones - and am trying to figure out how to sharpen it. It > >doesn't seem to have a bevel at all that I could use as a reference for > >honing. Does anyone know how these are supposed to be sharpened? > > If the bevel exists, it should be on the outside. An axe sharpening stone > works well on scorps and adzes. Disc shaped stones, usually one side fine > grit, the other rough. You can pick one up at any reputable hardware > store. > > When you get it worked down to where there's a burr on the inside edge, a > sharpening steel works well in rolling off the burr. Any reason to recommend a steel for this, as opposed to the slip stone used on gouges etc? BugBear (ever happy to learn) | |||
| 86622 | estuary@w... (Larry Holland) | Nov-23-2000 | Re: sharpening scorp? |
>> sharpening steel works well in rolling off the burr. and Paul sez... >Any reason to recommend a steel for this, as opposed to the >slip stone used on gouges etc? Not at all. Slip stones are great. I forged some sharpening steels, and have a few lying around...so it's mostly a matter of longevity. Steels tend to have a fairly long lifetime, which qualifies me as a tightwad...I guess. H...thankful for family and galoots Larry Holland estuary@w... | |||
| 86636 | Brian Wilson wilsonbrian@j... | Nov-24-2000 | Re: sharpening scorp? |
>Mike inquires about sharpening a scorp... > >I received a Swiss Made scorp for my Birthday a few days ago - one of >the one handed ones - and am trying to figure out how to sharpen it. It >doesn't seem to have a bevel at all that I could use as a reference for >honing. Does anyone know how these are supposed to be sharpened? To which Larry replied >If the bevel exists, it should be on the outside. An axe sharpening stone >works well on scorps and adzes. Disc shaped stones, usually one side fine >grit, the other rough. You can pick one up at any reputable hardware >store. Disclaimer - I in no way consider myself an expert on this and am not out to slam anyone. Having said that watch as I do a 1 1/2 back flip from the pan into the fire...... I have to question the wisdom of sharpening one of these with the bezel on the outside (out cannel) instead of on the inside (in cannel). While all of the modern (i.e. factory) scorps I've seen have been done that way (out cannel), I don't belive that is the best way. In fact I think this is a case of the factory bean counters (and just lack of tool knowledge at the factory) saying it's cheaper to grind the outside. The older scorps I have (2) and the one my windsor chair teacher uses all are in cannel. If you sharpen it with the bezel on the outside you have to hold the scorp at a steep angle of attack to get it to cut and I find that the handles and my hands are bumping into the work surface. If the bezel is on the inside of the scorp you can hold it parallel to your work surface and it's easier to rotate the blade which I find gives a better cut. I've tried using an out cannel scorp to shape a chair seat, for me it is very uncomfortable. This is the same idea as with bent / cranked pattern makers gouges. I was told they are in cannel so that you can get a good even depth of cut. So how about it? Do most people on the list who use these have them shaped with the bezel on the inside or the outside? Esther or anyone who has taken Dunbar's class, how does he shape his scorp? Now grinding an inside bezel on a scorp is a pain and for this sort of work I usually resort to using a hand held small tailed dremel err demon. You can also use a wood form or dowel wrapped in the corse blue AZ paper. In fact to sharpen these I use a wood dowel with wet dry paper and slip stones. With apologies to the list for mentioning tailed items. Regards, Brian Wilson Chevy Chase, Md. Having found some energy at last after eating too much turkey....... | |||
| 86638 | reeinelson@w... (Robert Nelson) | Nov-24-2000 | Re: sharpening scorp? |
Hi Brian & Larry & All, I was surprised when Larry said scorps should have the bezel on the outside. But since I'm not a user and can't speak from personal experience, I didn't say anything. Now that Brian has said he thinks the bezel on the inside is better, I'll second his motion. I have several old one and two handled draw scorps and have had others; all but one of those had the bezel on the inside and I could never quite figure out how the one that didn't could have been used very easily for the reasons Brian cited. Best Wishes, Bob | |||
| 86639 | "Croxton Gordon" lawyer@e... | Nov-24-2000 | Re: sharpening scorp? |
> Esther or anyone who has taken Dunbar's class, how does he shape his > scorp? > We were taught to shape it as a knife edge, or as close as you can get it to one; that is, not a chisel-edge. Fairly flat on both sides, with only the slightest outside polished bezel to be able to sever the chip at the end of the cut. Hold the scorp in a vise and sharpen the inside with sand (glass, Jeff) paper on a big dowel. Cut with the grain as much as possible, skewing/slewing as needed when the grain gets tricky. BTW, drawknives, likewise, are sharpened with knife edges, as opposed to chisel edges. You'll be amazed at how well it cuts. I realize this is a point on which reasonable craftspersons differ, like shave horses and tails-first (g). I've used scorps and drawknives sharpened both ways, and I'm sold on the knife edge. I'll defer to Dave Wachnicki, my personal expert and sharpening hero, to correct my mistakes and fill in any gaps in what I've said. Cheers and Happy Thanksgiving, Croxton full of Chesapeake Bay oysters | |||
| 86640 | Brian Wilson wilsonbrian@j... | Nov-24-2000 | Re: sharpening scorp? |
On Fri, 24 Nov 2000 12:44:40 -0500 "Croxton Gordon" lawyer@e... writes: > > > I realize this is a point on which reasonable craftspersons differ, > like > shave horses and tails-first (g). I've used scorps and drawknives > sharpened > both ways, and I'm sold on the knife edge. I'll defer to Dave > Wachnicki, my > personal expert and sharpening hero, to correct my mistakes and fill > in any > gaps in what I've said. > > Cheers and Happy Thanksgiving, > Croxton > full of Chesapeake Bay oysters > Oh lordy I've steped into one of those religious things... I was just hoping to stay warm ;-). Regards, Brian Wilson Chevy Chase, Md. | |||
| 86646 | estuary@w... (Larry Holland) | Nov-24-2000 | Re: sharpening scorp? |
Brian says... >So how about it? Do most people on the list who use these have them >shaped with the bezel on the inside or the outside? I guess it kinda depends on the particular tool. I forge my own adzes and drawknives, and work them down to a pretty sharp edge. Some of those I've seen in catalogs are pretty thick at the cutting edge, so the bevel in ground on the inside. Probably what I'd do in that case, too. I just happen to like the thin edge. So, guess I'd say to just do whatever works for you...and best of luck. H...sorta wishing I'd kept my mouth shut Larry Holland estuary@w... | |||
| 86647 | "Michael C. Recchione" recchione | Nov-24-2000 | Re: sharpening scorp? |
Larry Holland wrote: > > > So, guess I'd say to just do whatever works for you...and best of luck. > > H...sorta wishing I'd kept my mouth shut > Well, after I got Larry's first message, I went down to the shop and put a bevel on the outside of the scorp. I've never used one before, so I don't know what it's supposed to feel like, but I will say it feels enormously better than it did when I first got it. I think it was trying to approximate a knife edge, but didn't actually get there. In any case, I'm happy with it out-cannel. I'm grateful to all who responded, and very glad nobody kept his mouth shut. - Mike | |||
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