Or at least converted one.
I "acquired" a worn coffin smoother, as a favour for some rust-hunting.
The mouth is HUGE. (14mm, or 9 1/16").

I flattened the back on the blade a bit, and then scribbled
with a magic marker (poor man's layout fluid).
I marked on a 5" radius curve, and proceeded to remove some metal.
The curve is intended to prevent the 2 1/4" blade taking a full width
shaving - I don't suppose I could push it taking a full-width shaving.
this also means I should be safe from any "issues" with clogging/jamming near
the wedge/abuttment areas.

The blade shouldn't be prone to chatter. It's a parallel Marples,
weighing (without cap-iron) 326g = 12 Oz.

Using copious elbow grease, about an hour, and 50 grit AlZi 
paper-on-glass-plate I removed a lot of metal. a *lot* of metal.
I then had the compartively light work of finishing the lapping
and sharpening/honing process. No jigs for this galoot!
(not with a radiused blade...)

At the risk of spurning the advice on fitting a wedge, having
thrown away the cap-iron, I took Jeff's (off-list) advice, and
kept the cap-iron (duly fitted and polished). The cap-iron is still
straight, so I have a minium "apex of blade-curve" to cap-iron
distance of 3.4 mm (1/16")

I can reverse this decision in the future.

A quick flatten of the sole of the plane (it was badly convex)
and we're ready to try a new tool.

Rrrriiiiiiipp! Yikes! Holy Shit!

That's not a shaving! I've seen finer cuts made using froes!
A shaving I can measure with a ruler, not a micrometre.
And it leaves a lovely wavey surface. Definitely for rough work,
though. It's so effective (and has a short body) that I wouldn't
like to even try to come close to a line with it.

It was fun, easy (easier with a water-cooled grinder), and
I have a tool with which I can intimidate innocent lumber.

I don't know if this constitutes a "proper" scrub. But it works
pretty well. But for extended periods I'd like a rear handle - the
coffin body is not well suited to this task.

	Bugbear