I remember a while back that there was some discussion of using heat to
break the grip between rusted parts.  I have a hollow auger I got off of
*bay recently, and the adjustment screw is rusted tight together.  I don't
want to force the screw and break it, so what is the best way to loosen that
screw?

Pat Pasion

Pat asked..."

> I remember a while back that there was some discussion of using heat to
> break the grip between rusted parts.  I have a hollow auger.. and the
adjustment screw is rusted tight together.  I don't
> want to force the screw and break it, so what is the best way to loosen
that
> screw?"
>
> This is what I do in cases like this, I  spray some penertrating oil on
the screw, the best stuff I have found is called "Blaster",[or somthing like
that is in the shop right now] you can get it at auto stores and you shold
have some on hand anyway. Liquid wrench is ok too, WD40 is'nt much good in
my experiance.Leave over night, next day spray some more on and try it, but
dont force it. If still stuck take your propane torch and heat up moderatly
the surrounding area right around the screw, if carefull you can spray some
more pentraiting oil on it again,[turn your torch off while doing this so
you don't blow up] try again. Still stuck? Heat up again this time getting
as hot as you can,[couple of min. of direct flame not on the screw but
around the screw],then let cool some and spray the oil again and try, still
stuck? Heat up hot again then while hot give the screw all you got, as I
have tried everything else possiable if it breaks it breaks.I have a success
ratio of around 95% with most coming loose with the first heat. Now with
your hollow auger you have to wory some about getting the blades so hot they
will lose thier temper so try to keep the flame away from them, as long as
they don't turn blue you are ok.But if they have to come out for it to work
you may have no other option then to get them too hot.I feel if you don't
have to take a rusted screw out don't fool with it,as you do run the risk of
breaking it.Of course if it makes the tool unusable it has to come out,
though some people can't have a tool in thier shop that has a frozen screw
in it even if it affects nothing and must take them out on
principle........Again this is just what I have had good luck doing, Todd
>

Pat asks:

> I remember a while back that there was some discussion of using heat
to
> break the grip between rusted parts.  I have a hollow auger I got
off of
> *bay recently, and the adjustment screw is rusted tight together.  I
don't
> want to force the screw and break it, so what is the best way to
loosen that
> screw?

I picked up some stuff called "Rust Buster" a few years ago--one of
those impulse purchases when I saw it at the counter at the S**rs
parts and repair place.  The stuff works great.  Squirt a little
around the affected part, give it a couple of minutes to penetrate
(which it seems to do very well), maybe tap it gently a couple of
times, and have at it.  I've never had it fail, though must confess
that I've probably used it <10 times.  HTH.

Chuck

> I remember a while back that there was some discussion of
> using heat to break the grip between rusted parts.

I do a lot of this because I work on my own vehicles.  Up
here in New England, that means loosening parts that have
experienced lots of salt and winter for ten or more years.
The best stuff I've found for loosening rusted items is
Kroil.  Everybody that I know who has tried it loves the
stuff.  You can order it straight from the manufacturer at
http://www.kanolabs.com/.

Basically you squirt it and let it sit for several hours.
Perhaps do this two or three times.  If that doesn't work,
I usually try some heat from a torch.  The size of the torch
depends on the size of the parts you are freeing and whether
you are worried about discoloring the finish.  For a small
part like this, try a little propane torch.  Don't heat it
up red hot.  That's not necessary.

Good luck,
--Dave Shepard

> I remember a while back that there was some discussion of
> using heat to
> break the grip between rusted parts.  I have a hollow auger I
> got off of
> *bay recently, and the adjustment screw is rusted tight
> together.  I don't
> want to force the screw and break it, so what is the best way
> to loosen that
> screw?

Apply penetrating oil (Kroil from Kano Labs, Liquid Wrench, Tap Magic,
or Breakfree, in that order of preference - WD-40 *sukz*, and shouldn't
be allowed near your tools), let soak overnight, put your screwdriver
in the slot, apply a light tap with a hammer on the handle, then try
*tightening* the screw lightly - this often fractures enough of the
rust to allow the screw to be worked out.

If that fails, heat from a propane torch will help.

If that fails, the hand held impact wrench is next.

Whatever you do, if the screw has a slot, make sure your screwdriver
fits the slot tightly, and full width - otherwise you are *guaranteed*
to bugger up the slot.  Custom grind one, if necessary.

The usual cautions about thread direction, things that look like screws
but aren't, etc.

I work with old, rusty, guns a lot, and have only had to resort to
the impact wrench once or twice in the last 20 years - the only screw
I've buggered/broke was one that was 90% rust, anyway.

Good luck.

Kirk Hays
Cedar Mills, Orygun

Pasion wrote:
>
> I remember a while back that there was some discussion of using heat to
> break the grip between rusted parts.  I have a hollow auger I got off of
> *bay recently, and the adjustment screw is rusted tight together.  I don't
> want to force the screw and break it, so what is the best way to loosen that
> screw?

Pat,

Welcome to the list!

I've had good luck with a product from Kano Labs called Kroil. It is
only available directly from them. I've used the Kroil that originally
(and still does) comes as a liquid in a can like Liquid Wrench, but
find their new  AeroKroil that comes in a spray can like WD-40 to be
more convenient, less messy, and more economical to use.

                http://www.kanolabs.com/

Chris

Pat wrote:
        "I don't want to force the screw and break it, so what is the best way
to
loosen that
screw?"
        Easy - yea right!  The "secret" is patience, time, penetrating oil and
creating vibrations to make the penetrant sink in.  I've used WD-40 and
other chemicals made to penetrate rust.  I've also had luck with a long
soaking in auto transmission fluid (ever seen an other than crispy clean
transmission parts?).  But, tapping or other impact means to introduce
vibration to move the liquid chemicals into the bond is essential.

***********************************************
*   Karl W. Sanger                               *
*        Desperately seeking antique       *
*                    Machinist Tools!!!           *
* (Email: sangerkw@m...)   *
***********************************************

At 06:17 PM 1/21/00 -0500, Karl W. Sanger wrote:
>Pat wrote:
>       "I don't want to force the screw and break it, so what is the best way
to
>loosen that
>screw?"
>       Easy - yea right!  The "secret" is patience, time, penetrating oil and
>creating vibrations to make the penetrant sink in.  I've used WD-40 and

Yepper, if anybody is the expert on loose screws..it's gotta be Karl..

Tony..set up and rock and rolling here at MWTCA-York

________________________________________________________
        Old tools..don't leave home without them
________________________________________________________

Electro zappin them works pretty well too..

Best Regards,
John

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