>
> Charlie wrote:
>
> >I keep hearing about driving screws with a brace.  WTB a #2 phillips brace
> >bit to try.  I've got plenty of straight bits.
>
<<snippy, snip>>
.
>
> I like to use a small brace for driving screws. I don't think I'd like to
> build a deck or a house with a brace but for furniture making and general
> shop use they work well. One thing about a brace is that you can  'feel'
> what you are doing better than any cordless drill. After a while you know
> when you are about to twist off the screw or torque out of the slot.
> ****************************
> Tom Price (TomPrice@a...)

I don't remember telling this tale...
I put a board floor in a section of my attic (=loft).
Needed 5 4x8 chipboard (=particle board) sheets, cut in all sorts
of interesting shapes.

Each and every one was fitted to the joists by:
        Drilling a 3mm pilot hole through board and brace
        Drilling a 4mm clearance hole though board (depth stop used)
        Counter-sinking the board
        Driving the screw.
        The above got repeated A LOT.

I used a J*gs*w for the cutting. I didn't
have room up there to set up a board firm enough for good hand-sawing.
In any case I had no intention of using a nice saw on chipboard,
and no intention of hand-sawing with a saw that wasn't nice.

A 3/4" bit was used to facilitate internal corners with.

To achieve all this I used:
3 and 4 mm bits. Both held in egg-beaters drill (Stanley 801, and a MF)
Countersink - electricians brace - about 6" sweep.
Screwdriver - powertool bit held in 14" sweep brace
3/4 Holes. Brace + Bit.

Didn't have to change bits once. Sometime it's good to be a tool
hoarder! I have subsequently loaned (and got back)
the full set to someone else for the same job.

        BugBear
        (who would have been tempted by one of those 3-stage
        drill-bits you can get... the electrons would have called...)