Okay hypothetical (not) question...

Let's say some Galoot was trying to get fancy and dovetail the breadboard
ends onto his workbench slab... and totally hosed it up(saw that one coming
didn't you?-).

He then decides to forgot the whole mess and return the ends back to
straight and square.....

Okay so how would he then go about _accuatrely_ cross cutting 24"  through
2-3/4" hard maple...  Keeping it square and straight, in less than a week,
and not having his arm fall off?

At 02:58 PM 1/31/99 -0500, you wrote:

>Let's say some Galoot was trying to get fancy and dovetail the breadboard
>ends onto his workbench slab... and totally hosed it up(saw that one coming
>didn't you?-).

Well, nothing wrong with that, it was probably too long anyways ;-)

>Okay so how would he then go about _accuatrely_ cross cutting 24"  through
>2-3/4" hard maple...  Keeping it square and straight, in less than a week,
>and not having his arm fall off?

Only guessing (but then again, it's Superbowl Sunday and I'm at work, so
I'll chime in with whatever my cranky #*@^'ing self wants to chime in
with!), but it sounds like you could use a batten on the top, and use a
backsaw with the "trace along the kerf" deal on the front and back, though
I'm not sure how you'd get a kerf along the bottom with that dang Emmert of
yours...

I know, you could swap the Emmert for my Record 52E....yeah, that'd make
the benchtop light enough to flip over...yeah...

Cheers,

   Steve

John Gunterman wrote:

>Okay so how would he then go about _accuatrely_ cross cutting 24"  through
>2-3/4" hard maple...  Keeping it square and straight, in less than a week,
>and not having his arm fall off?

A good sharp crosscut saw, then plane to the line, using that L-N #62
exactly as the Good Lord intended. That's what I ended up doing to trim
mine, which is a couple inches narrower and a tad thicker. No kidding, that
#62 was a pleasure to use, even sideways the way I did it -- wide, long
end-grain shavings -- amazing. That's after your arm recovers, of course.

David Barnett
Northampton, MA

>>Okay so how would he then go about _accuatrely_ cross cutting 24"  through
>>2-3/4" hard maple...  Keeping it square and straight, in less than a week,
>>and not having his arm fall off?

> it sounds like you could use a batten on the top, and use a
>backsaw with the "trace along the kerf" deal on the front and back,

yeahh, Okay....THEN what?

>I know, you could swap the Emmert for my Record 52E....

If it were a Tucker, I'd _consider_ it.

>yeah, that'd make the benchtop light enough to flip over...yeah...

well, there is nothing attached to this slab yet...
it is not even attached to the legs yet....
but at 130 Lbs, it is not really all that necessary just yet ;-)

BTW, The best idea I had so far was see if any normites in my area have a
RAS they would not mind letting me use for a few minutes... But that would
be cheating, woudn't it?-)

> Okay hypothetical (not) question...
>
> Let's say some Galoot was trying to get fancy and dovetail the breadboard
> ends onto his workbench slab... and totally hosed it up(saw that one coming
> didn't you?-).
>
> He then decides to forgot the whole mess and return the ends back to
> straight and square.....
>
> Okay so how would he then go about _accuatrely_ cross cutting 24"  through
> 2-3/4" hard maple...  Keeping it square and straight, in less than a week,
> and not having his arm fall off?
> --
> John A. Gunterman

Apart from general "pride in work" how _accurately_ square does the end of a
bench
*NEED* to be?

        BugBear