Happy New Year to all.

I built one of those frame resaws
(from a large chunk of red oak,
preparing all the pieces using hand
tools, exept I did the ripping on the
TS).

Anyway, I gave it a test drive
on a short length of
4/4 maple board. So far so
good, but I wasn't quite sure how
to get it to track in a straight line
(in the axis parallel to the board's
length).

I read of a technique where the
edges of the cut are done on the
TS, and the resaw is used to saw
out the "middle". The edge cuts
guide the blade. This sounds
promising, but I don't want to
loose a TS kerf width of material.

If I proceed entierly by hand,
what's the best technique to
avoid blade wander ?

On Thu, 31 Dec 1998 19:03:14 -0800 "David Boreham" <davidb@i...>
writes:
>

>I built one of those frame resaws
>
>I read of a technique where the
>edges of the cut are done on the
>TS, and the resaw is used to saw
>out the "middle". The edge cuts
>guide the blade. This sounds
>promising, but I don't want to
>loose a TS kerf width of material.
>
>If I proceed entierly by hand,
>what's the best technique to
>avoid blade wander ?
>

You can take a back saw and cut a kerf all the way around the edge too.
A dovetail saw should leave a very thin kerf.  Mark the line first with a

marking/cutting gage and then cut down through the line.

Just set the blade on the line so that the saw is parallel to the long
axis
of the board and guide it carefully so as to start a straight kerf.  I've
not
done this to prepare stock for resawing, but I have resawn small pieces
(small enough to resaw entirely with the back saw) this way.

> I built one of those frame resaws
snip
> Anyway, I gave it a test drive
> on a short length of
> 4/4 maple board. So far so
> good, but I wasn't quite sure how
> to get it to track in a straight line
> (in the axis parallel to the board's
> length).
snip
> If I proceed entierly by hand,
> what's the best technique to
> avoid blade wander ?

Hi David.
Take this with a grain of salt since I have never done said task but
I do recall a description of how to complete it.  Apologies to the
original poster, I have no access to my saved copy and I can't recall
your name.
Anyhow, start be scribing a line around the board which marks where
you want to cut.  But the board in a vice with face perpendicualar to
the floor and length parallel to the floor. Grap you tenon saw and start
at one of the top two corners.  Cut downwards on a 45 degree angle until
the saw kerf extends about half-way through the board.  Flip the board
over and grab your tenon saw again.  Cutting on the same end downward at
45 degrees until the new saw kerf entends just into first one you cut.

Now, use your frame saw.  Place the saw in the new kerf.  The  kerf on
the underside will keep the blade on track.  Just follow the line on
the top.  Continue cutting at 45 degrees until the blade just about
starts cutting the line on the underside.  I say just about because if
it starts cutting the line, there will be nothing to keep it on  track.
Just flip the board over and repeat,  again at 45 degreees. use an
iterative process until you make it through.  If this is not clear I can
try and explain it another way.  Take care and Happy Holidays
-michael

Michael R Shortreed
mshort@i...

At 9:39 AM -0600 1/1/99, mshort@i... wrote:
        [snip]
>I have never done said task but
>I do recall a description of how to complete it.  Apologies to the
>original poster, I have no access to my saved copy and I can't recall
>your name.

        Um..that would be me.  I've already sent a re-copy of the technique
posting to David Boreham.  It was originally sent on Nov. 25 last year (ie,
1998) and should be in the archives.  If anyone who wants it can't find it,
ping me for a copy.
        BTW, there is now a photo of me using my framesaw for resawing on
Ralph Brendler's Shaker Box Page, at:

        http://www.mcs.net/~brendler/oldtools/ShakerBoxes/#Band

                Tom Holloway

Tom Holloway wrote:        Um..that would be me.  I've already sent a re-copy
of the technique

>         http://www.mcs.net/~brendler/oldtools/ShakerBoxes/#Band
>

I don't quite understand something.  I have seen framesaws in which the spacing
between the long
members of the frame is made adjustable, usually by having them attach to the
handle in a slot with
some sort of bolt/wingnut arrangement.

I have always assumed that this is so the members can be moved so as to serve
as the guide for
sawing. In other words if I wish to saw a 3/8" plank off of a board 2" thick, I
would place one
member 3/8" from the saw blade and the other member 1 5/8" from the blade
(omitting the
conisderation of kerf length). The members would then act as a guide to the
cut, assuming flat faces
on the plank.

Am I just whacko here (a possibility more likely as I age)?