A couple of us have entered into a private conversation that grew out
of the "Stanley 604 vs. Norris A5" thread.  I had asked how a wooden
plane fits into the equation and the responses I got were along the lines
that a wooden smoother with a tight mouth and thick iron can do just fine,
the main drawback being maintenance of the mouth opening.  From there the
conversation drifted to the method by which the wedge is held.

What we were wondering is if the Krenov style wedge system in which the
wedge bears on a bar across the throat is as effective as the traditional
method that gives more support along the length of the wedge.  Is this a
factor in chatter-free smoothing of gnarly grained woods?

My particular interest in this question stems from my desire to make my
own smoother.  The Krenov style looks significantly easier for a newbie
to make - especially without the benefit of floats.  Aside from the
aesthetics (I love the look of traditional planes) is there any advantage
one way or another?

We were also interested in what other characteristics would make for 
the ideal wooden smoother:  

  - Bedding angle?  45? 50? something else?
  - Iron thickness?  How thick is thick enough?
  - Would a bronze or iron sole or wear plate be helpful?
  - Stock material:  Should it be made 100% from a really hard wood to
    get the best bedding support or is it sufficient to just a lignum sole?
    What wood were infills typically stuffed with?

--
Scott Post    spost@k...