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250223 Anthony Seo <tonyseo@p...> 2014‑08‑29 Galoot Refinishing Formula No 1
I've had some emails about the Galoot No 1 finish so to speak so here 
is the info

First the webpage

http://oldetoolshop.com/j
ointer/formula.html

That pretty much explains how to make it.

Now for the FAQ that usually come up.

You can substitute turpentine for mineral spirits, works just the same.

Other folks have used carnauba or other waxes, but I prefer beeswax 
because of the price and availability around here.

Some have made this by shaving the wax into mineral spirits and after 
it dissolves, adding the linseed oil.  Never tried it, cause when I 
need it, I need it.

No, do no use straight or un boiled linseed oil.  You want this to dry quickly.

You do not have to break out the precision ruled laboratory beakers 
to make this.  I've been making this for 20 years now and always eye 
balled it.  The only thing that is critical is that there is at least 
enough linseed oil to the wax.  Not enough and it tends to 
harden.  If you get a bit too much oil, the oil floats to the top but 
I just keep stirring it back in and sooner or later it blends in.

Not enough thinner or spirits and it will harden but too much isn't 
that much of a problem.  I make up a little less than a pint at a 
time and I have to keep adding and mixing in spirits as time goes on.

Been asked about reheating it, and you can get away with it maybe one 
time but the linseed oil does start to coagulate and get funky.

After it is cooked and blended, I put it into a loosely covered 
container and stir it around once in a while until it is completely 
cooled although it can be used hot and works well on really dried out 
wood that way.

On metal, it's wipe on and wipe off.  With wood, I wipe it on and let 
it soak in a little before wiping.

Never had a problem with spontaneous combustion because of the 
linseed oil.  I'm not saying that it won't happen (and spare us the 
47 emails detailing such experiences) but even though this is a 
flammable mixture, I think the wax tends to inhibit that behavior.

S-x lube, never tried it.

Hope this helps

Tony (yawn...........)



                         Olde River Hard Goods
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250224 paul womack <pwomack@p...> 2014‑08‑29 Re: Galoot Refinishing Formula No 1
Anthony Seo wrote:
> I've had some emails about the Galoot No 1 finish so to speak so here is the
info
>
> First the webpage
>
> http://oldetoolshop.com
/jointer/formula.html
>
> That pretty much explains how to make it.
>
> Now for the FAQ that usually come up.
>
> You can substitute turpentine for mineral spirits, works just the same.

Turpentine smells more, and (IMHO) better.

  BugBear
250228 Christopher Swingley <cswingle@s...> 2014‑08‑29 Re: Galoot Refinishing Formula No 3
Adrian,

On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 11:43 AM, Adrian Jones
 wrote:
> 50/50 olive oil and beeswax.

Yes!  This is my go-to for leather gloves, my boots and rain hat, and
the handles of all my outdoor tools.  I melt the stuff with a heat gun
and just pour it into my gloved hands and rub it all over the shovel
(or whatever) handle.  Smells great and it keeps the handles from
drying out.  Might keep them from rotting away in the rain too, but
that's not usually a problem in Fairbanks.  Never tried it on
furniture or other finer wood goods.

Cheers,

Chris
-- 
Christopher Swingley
Fairbanks, Alaska
http://swingleydev.com/
cswingle@s...
250229 Anthony Seo <tonyseo@p...> 2014‑08‑30 Re: Galoot Refinishing Formula No 3
At 03:43 PM 8/29/2014, Adrian Jones wrote:
>Yo galootis,
>
>May I propose another formula, especially for the pinko commie, eco-freek,
>tree hugging wimpoids, like myself:
>
>50/50 olive oil and beeswax.

I've used that mix as a patch lube for my muzzleloading guns.  The 
problem is that it never really dries, I have some that I made 8-9 
years ago that still feel greasy.

Not something that I would use on wood...

Tony (another long day)




                         Olde River Hard Goods
                     http://www.oldetoolshop.com">http://www.oldetoolshop.com
                                   TSMusic on Facebook
                http://www.facebo
ok.com/tonyseomusic
250230 Christopher Swingley <cswingle@s...> 2014‑08‑30 Re: Galoot Refinishing Formula No 3
Tony,

On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 4:39 PM, Anthony Seo  wrote:
>> 50/50 olive oil and beeswax.
>
> I've used that mix as a patch lube for my muzzleloading guns.  The problem
> is that it never really dries, I have some that I made 8-9 years ago that
> still feel greasy.

That makes sense, Tony.  The places I use it (fabric, leather, brute
force tool handles) I don't mind if it doesn't dry rock hard.  Also, I
think my mix is more beeswax than oil, which is why I have to melt it
with a heat gun before I can get it liquidy enough to work easily.

Cheers,

Chris
-- 
Christopher Swingley
Fairbanks, Alaska
http://swingleydev.com/
cswingle@s...
250231 Brent Beach <brent.beach@g...> 2014‑08‑30 Re: Galoot Refinishing Formula No 3
Walnut oil

On 2014-08-29 18:07, Christopher Swingley wrote:
> Tony,
>
> On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 4:39 PM, Anthony Seo  wrote:
>>> 50/50 olive oil and beeswax.
>>
>> I've used that mix as a patch lube for my muzzleloading guns.  The problem
>> is that it never really dries, I have some that I made 8-9 years ago that
>> still feel greasy.
>
> That makes sense, Tony.  The places I use it (fabric, leather, brute
> force tool handles) I don't mind if it doesn't dry rock hard.  Also, I
> think my mix is more beeswax than oil, which is why I have to melt it
> with a heat gun before I can get it liquidy enough to work easily.

A nut based oil like walnut oil will dry. The non-drying oils not only 
always feel greasy, the oil will eventually go rancid. Walnut oil will 
dry and give you a harder finish.

A search for walnut oil in the archives will find several discussions 
over the years. Right now search is not working for me.

Brent
-- 
Brent Beach
Victoria, BC, Canada
250232 Michael Blair <branson2@s...> 2014‑08‑30 Re: Galoot Refinishing Formula No 3
> Walnut oil

There's a longish list of vegetable oils that can do the trick.  
Unboiled linseed oil for one, which *is* used, believe it or not, in 
some food recipes.  Grapeseed oil won't go rancid either.  And there's 
always the lemon oil or orange oil and bees wax solutions that are used 
as furniture polishes. These are great for the channels of double hung 
windows (we do know that these channels should never be painted).
There's another vegetable oil I've used in the distant past that won't 
go rancid, safflower oil.  Takes a while, but will eventually harden.

Mike in Sacto
250269 paul womack <pwomack@p...> 2014‑09‑01 Re: Galoot Refinishing Formula No 3
Michael Blair wrote:
>  Unboiled linseed oil for one, which *is* used, believe it or not, in some
food recipes.

The edible type is often (but not always) called "flaxseed oil".

https://www.flaxfarm.co.uk/linse
edoil

  BugBear

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