Cambering the iron will also affect how close you can get the cap iron to
the bevel. Seems like a bad idea to have the square corners of the cap iron
hanging over the ends. But maybe not, since the cap iron would still be
bearing on the working portion of the bevel. Never thought to try it.

Information content of this post negligible. Sorry.

Steve
Traveling Kokomo galoot
 On Jun 29, 2012 12:54 AM, "scott grandstaff" <scottg@s...> wrote:

> He showed me how to put a cap iron in a vice with the curvy end sticking
> up, and then to tap it with a hammer to bend the curvy end down (toward the
> blade) a bit.
>
>  If the cap iron has been damaged at all, you always have to do this to
> seat it well.
>  Also, if switching between plane brands or time periods of the same brand
> its often the case you need to reshape it.
>
>
>
>  With a cap iron setting you have to "Pay your money and make your choice"
> between throat size and cap iron setting.
>  If you set the cap iron really close, and you can if you want,
> it will hit the forward throat of the plane allowing no shaving at all if
> your mouth is very tight.
> So you have to back off the frog and open the mouth some to accommodate a
> really close cap iron setting.
>
>  If you want a really tight mouth, you have to raise the cap iron
> considerably.
>
> Its kind of a push / pull.
>
>  I like my cap irons a bit under 1/16, but close to that,
>  and as close a mouth setting as that allows, for smoothing.
>
>  I could set the mouth smaller with a higher cap iron setting but the
> compromise I settled on long ago seems to work for me.
>  yours Scott
>
> --
> *********************************
>   Scott Grandstaff
>   Box 409 Happy Camp, Ca  96039
>   scottg@s...
>  
http://www.snowcrest.net/**kitty/sgrandstaff/<http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/>
>  
http://www.snowcrest.net/**kitty/hpages/index.html<http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/hpages/index.html>
>
>
>
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