For recent comers to the porch.

Try your best to design products to avoid boring into hard curly maple end
grain. Jennings augers are really not well suited to this work. Little project
this week called for fourteen holes in curly maple end grain. Had to resort to
another method. Poor thinking on my part. I won't do that again.

Ron a Kokomo Galoot

Sent from Xfinity Mobile App
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On 6/24/2012 8:30 PM, harperron@c... wrote:
> For recent comers to the porch.
>
>
> Try your best to design products to avoid boring into hard curly maple end
grain. Jennings augers are really not well suited to this work. Little project
this week called for fourteen holes in curly maple end grain. Had to resort to
another method. Poor thinking on my part. I won't do that again.
>
> Ron a Kokomo Galoot
>
>
> Sent from Xfinity Mobile App
>
Recently I was drilling into oak endgrain and felt there must be a 
better way. I tried regrinding the twist bit, but it didn't help much. 
However, a bit of searching and I found someone else has considered this 
problem and claims to have a solution. Some of his bits resemble 
Grandstaff brad points, but the grind which Peter Galbert recommends for 
endgrain he describes as "a twist bit...(with) ... a horn"

http://chairnotes.blogspot.ca/search/label/Drill%20Grinding

I haven't tried this yet, but maybe it will help.
FWIW
Don

-- 
The things which are advertised most are things you need least. - 
Notsurewho said that.
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harperron@c... wrote:
> For recent comers to the porch.
>
>
> Try your best to design products to avoid boring into hard curly maple end
grain. Jennings augers are really not well suited to this work. Little project
this week called for fourteen holes in curly maple end grain. Had to resort to
another method. Poor thinking on my part. I won't do that again.

That's not a design error.

That's a message telling you to learn of, and acquire, a wider range
of auger bit styles.

  BugBear
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On Jun 24, 2012, at 10:30 PM, harperron@c... wrote:

> For recent comers to the porch.
> 
> 
> Try your best to design products to avoid boring into hard curly maple end
grain. Jennings augers are really not well suited to this work. Little project
this week called for fourteen holes in curly maple end grain. Had to resort to
another method. Poor thinking on my part. I won't do that again.

Most of us have the equivaltent of the RJ #100 bits. Double threaded for
drilling into "seasoned hardwoods, not extremely gummy or hard". They don't
drill into hard Maple very well. The fine threads of the lead screw clog too
easily. For that you need something like the Irwin single twist bit. But neither
will drill end grain, altho in some woods the Irwins can make progress. My
understanding is that for endgrain you need a "barefaced" bit, i.e., no lead
screw. I can't tell you how well that will work as i have never found even a
single one for a brace.

Bill, now off to explore the source of the puddle of water just discovered in
the shop!!!
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ron, For what it's worth, here is how I handled a similar challenge:

_http://galootcentral.com/index.php?option=com_copperminevis&Itemid=2&p-
lacedisplayimage&album=368&pos=2_ (http://galootcentral.com/index.php?o-
ption=com_copperminevis&Itemid=2&place=displayimage&album=368&pos=2)

and

_http://galootcentral.com/index.php?option=com_copperminevis&Itemid=2&p-
lacedisplayimage&album=368&pos=1_ (http://galootcentral.com/index.php?o-
ption=com_copperminevis&Itemid=2&place=displayimage&album=368&pos=1)

As you can see, the results were satisfactory.

_http://galootcentral.com/index.php?option=com_copperminevis&Itemid=2&p-
lacedisplayimage&album=368&pos=3_ (http://galootcentral.com/index.php?o-
ption=com_copperminevis&Itemid=2&place=displayimage&album=368&pos=3)

Cheers, John

John M. Johnston "There is a fine line between hobby and mental
illness." Dave Barry

> Try your best to design products to avoid boring into hard curly maple
end grain.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

On Jun 25, 2012, at 04:35 , William Ghio <bghio@m...> wrote:

> My understanding is that for endgrain you need a "barefaced" bit, i.e., no
lead screw. I can't tell you how well that will work as i have never found even
a single one for a brace.

Thanks, Bill, now I have more bits to acquire...  

Note that gimlet bits work fine in endgrain, so that's a good option if you're
boring a smaller hole.  Don't shell and nose augers also work in endgrain?  I've
not tried them extensively.

Adam

------------------------------------------------------------------------

On Jun 25, 2012, at 11:26 AM, Adam R. Maxwell wrote:

>  Don't shell and nose augers also work in endgrain?  I've not tried them
extensively.

I had a spoon bit chucked up in the brace so on reading this I gave it a try.
Seems t work just fine. It went about 1 inch into Sugar Maple endgrain quite
cleanly.

Bill
------------------------------------------------------------------------

I've been down the boring into end grain road many times. Having tried
and failed to use my Irwin and Jennings pattern auger bits I did some
research and came up with some good alternatives. Like Bill said, there
were auger bits designed specifically for end grain boring. These did
have a lead screw but did not have cutting spurs. One example is the
Irwin "7-Head" bit which you can see on the right here:
http://hyperkitten.com/pics/tools/tmp/Irwin_Page18_19.jpg. The Ford
pattern bits were also advertised as well suited for end grain work.
These had a lead screw and single cutting spur:
http://hyperkitten.com/tools/ads/display_ad.php?picture_file=ford1.jpg
The original Forstner bits were claimed to perform well on end grain as
well as being able to bore holes at any angle due to their lack of lead
screw. I like these a lot but they are slow and a pain to sharpen. http-
://hyperkitten.com/tools/ads/display_ad.php?picture_file=bridgeport1.jpg
http://hyperkitten.com/pics/tools/ads/prog2.jpg

By far the best bit that I found to bore end grain is the Whitehouse
patent bit. The design was patented I don't have a picture of one handy
but you can get the drift of it but the patent drawing here:
http://tinyurl.com/7hxgjbo (go to the second page of drawings). I have
a set of these with a really coarse single lead screw and they
absolutely eat through end grain. The coarse screw really holds its
grip well which I think is important for end grain work. Forget those
wimpy Russell Jennings bits with the fine double screw. You need a big,
coarse lead screw for this sort of work. I've also used Cook's patent
bits (another bit advertised to work well on end grain and boring in
odd directions) on end grain and they work very well, but not as fast
as my Whitehouse bits. You can learn a lot about these bits on George's
page here: http://www.georgesbasement.com/braces/RansomCook/RansomCook-
PatentAugerBits.htm

Fun stuff! ..enough procrastinating. I'm going back out to clean up some
more tools.

Josh

On Jun 25, 2012, at 11:26 AM, Adam R. Maxwell wrote:

>> On Jun 25, 2012, at 04:35 , William Ghio <bghio@m...> wrote:
>>> My understanding is that for endgrain you need a "barefaced" bit,
>>> i.e., no lead screw. I can't tell you how well that will work as i
>>> have never found even a single one for a brace.
>> Thanks, Bill, now I have more bits to acquire... >> Note that gimlet
>> bits work fine in endgrain, so that's a good option if you're boring
>> a smaller hole. Don't shell and nose augers also work in endgrain?
>> I've not tried them extensively. Adam
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Joshua Clark wrote:
>
> By far the best bit that I found to bore end grain is the Whitehouse patent
bit. The design was patented I don't have a picture of one handy but you can get
the drift of it but the patent drawing here: http://tinyurl.com/7hxgjbo (go to
the second page of drawings). I have a set of these with a really coarse single
lead screw and they absolutely eat through end grain. The coarse screw really
holds its grip well which I think is important for end grain work. Forget those
wimpy Russell Jennings bits with the fine double screw. You need a big, coarse
lead screw for this sort of work.

Whitehouse you say?

http://swingleydev.com/archive/get.php?message_id=215309#message

http://galootcentral.com/components/cpgalbums/userpics/10152/whitehouse_aug.jpg

  BugBear
------------------------------------------------------------------------