GGs,

My sliding dovetails always seem to need some tweaking, and a side 
rebate plane seems the best tool for adjusting the angled sides of 
the dado.  The plane I have is a Record 2506S:

http://www.record-planes.com/77/record-no-2506s-side-rabbet-plane/

I've been wary of this thing ever since I got it, since the points 
of the irons extend above the skate, and I'm always afraid of 
stabbing myself with the one that's pointing upwards.

Well, it finally happened.  The plane slipped towards the floor,
and I tried to catch it instead of letting it drop; that was a 
mistake, since it hit the concrete anyway.  The one-inch cut on 
my lower palm is fairly shallow, but I could have easily slashed 
my wrist on this thing.  

So here are a few questions:

1) Are wooden side rebates effective for sliding dovetails?  It looks
   like the sole on some might be too wide to let it reach into the
   corner.

2) Is there an iron version that is safer?  I actually wanted the
   Veritas side rebate, but they were out of stock when I needed one.
   Hence the 2506 purchase from the MofA.

3) If wooden ones are effective, does anyone have a user pair that
   they'd be willing to sell?

thanks,
Adam
Port Angeles, WA

PS: the plane wasn't hurt by the fall, thank-you-very-much. If any
of you are looking for a Record 2506S in good condition, let me know.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

On May 20, 2012, at 13:16 , "Adam R. Maxwell" <amaxwell@m...> wrote:

> I've been wary of this thing ever since I got it, since the points 
> of the irons extend above the skate, and I'm always afraid of 
> stabbing myself with the one that's pointing upwards.

With usual apologies for replying to myself etc., I just noticed that
the points are flattened off on _some_ of the planes pictured here:

http://www.record-planes.com/77/record-no-2506s-side-rabbet-plane/

That would make the thing safer, and it would probably work better as
well, since the points snag.  Can anyone tell me if that was Record's
intent, or just something that users smarter than me came up with?

I've always wondered if the bed angle on mine was screwed up, as the
blades have to be extended farther than I think they should.  Maybe
the point-flattening was only necessary on some versions?

thanks,
Adam, feeling stupider than usual in Port Angeles, WA

------------------------------------------------------------------------

LV recommends taking the point off on theirs

On Sunday, May 20, 2012, Adam R. Maxwell wrote:

>
> On May 20, 2012, at 13:16 , "Adam R. Maxwell" <amaxwell@m...<javascript:;>>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> With usual apologies for replying to myself etc., I just noticed that
> the points are flattened off on _some_ of the planes pictured here:
>
> http://www.record-planes.com/77/record-no-2506s-side-rabbet-plane/
>
>
>

-- 
Kirk Eppler
PP&TD
eppler.kirk@g...
650 225-3911
------------------------------------------------------------------------

On 5/20/2012 2:16 PM, Adam R. Maxwell wrote:
> GGs,
>
> My sliding dovetails always seem to need some tweaking, and a side
> rebate plane seems the best tool for adjusting the angled sides of
> the dado.  The plane I have is a Record 2506S:
>
> http://www.record-planes.com/77/record-no-2506s-side-rabbet-plane/
>
> I've been wary of this thing ever since I got it, since the points
> of the irons extend above the skate, and I'm always afraid of
> stabbing myself with the one that's pointing upwards.
>
> Well, it finally happened.  The plane slipped towards the floor,
> and I tried to catch it instead of letting it drop; that was a
> mistake, since it hit the concrete anyway.  The one-inch cut on
> my lower palm is fairly shallow, but I could have easily slashed
> my wrist on this thing.
>
> So here are a few questions:
>
> 1) Are wooden side rebates effective for sliding dovetails?  It looks
>     like the sole on some might be too wide to let it reach into the
>     corner.
>
> 2) Is there an iron version that is safer?  I actually wanted the
>     Veritas side rebate, but they were out of stock when I needed one.
>     Hence the 2506 purchase from the MofA.
>
> 3) If wooden ones are effective, does anyone have a user pair that
>     they'd be willing to sell?
>
> thanks,
> Adam
> Port Angeles, WA
>
> PS: the plane wasn't hurt by the fall, thank-you-very-much. If any
> of you are looking for a Record 2506S in good condition, let me know.
>
If you can stand the colour, you could try this.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/kunz79siderabbetplane.aspx

Luckily I got mine years ago, and it's nickel-plated. It does the job, 
and I have no experience with any others, so no way to compare.
Don
-- 
I have tried too in my time, to be a philosopher; but I don't know how, 
cheerfulness was always breaking in. - Oliver Edwards
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here are just some thoughts.

1] Wooden side rebates are cool in a gizomtic way.
But as a usable tool I would definitely avoid them.

(Of course, as with all advice on the Porch, YMMV and I'm sure
many folks have different thoughts.)

2] The dream team, of course, is a pair of the Stanley (or LieNielsen)
side rebates.  But be prepared to pay a fortune
(OTOH, Father's day _is coming up).

3] An excellent fall back to the 98/99 pair (see item #2, Jeff)
is to get find yourself a nice *pair* of Stanley #79s.

Some folks don't like the "trailing blade" on the 79 [but it's never
bothered me]  But in any case have two solves this problem.  And,
if you're not in a rush you should be able to find two 79 for the price
of _either_ a 98 _or_ a 99 by itself.

4] Finally, one other win to the #79:

Since your main goal is to use these for sliding dovetails, the 79 has
a nice little depth stop that is pretty durn easy to bend to correct angle
as a guide for the working the side of the dovetail slot.

Or, even better, keep the original, and make yourself an set
of guides in an assortment of angles our of sheet metal.

Needless to say, this is all just my opinion on these things, but I hope
there's something helpful here.
Nichael 
------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm surprised the Stanley 98/99 weren't mentioned sooner; for me, at
least, these are comfortable in my hand, and none of the others are.

"Pay a fortune" seems an overstatement to me, and I'm a bottomfeeder.
Last year at the Alameda Flea I finally bought a user 98 with depth
gauge, needing only light cleaning and sharpening, and paid $40 for it.
The same day I passed up a 99 for $80 (no cash left), and I saw this
same plane down to $60 this month (no cash left). I just browsed some
current dealers' lists and eBay, and this seems a good but not
gloatable price.

We all know the difficulty of comparisons, but my impression of the
current prices I scanned is that given comparable condition, age, and
luck, a single 98 or 99 will be somewhat less than the price of a 79,
but somewhat more than half the price. The Veritas double-bladed side
rabbit is $129, and you could probably pick up a user Stanley 98/99 pair
for less than that with very little waiting, or a Stanley 79 in the same
ballpark. The cheap option is a Kunz ($70), but my experience of Kunz
blades has been bad. Even the L-N isn't that much more expensive ($240
the pair), though more than I could spend.

I don't think a pair of 79s makes economic sense, but if they fit you
hand better that's another matter. It all seems to be about how they fit
your hand with side rabbets.

Tom Conroy

Back by popular request: "All theory, all the time." (One request, but
its popular with me).


 Nichael Cramer wrote:

" 2] The dream team, of course, is a pair of the Stanley (or LieNielsen)
side rebates.=A0 But be prepared to pay a fortune...

"3] An excellent fall back to the 98/99 pair (see item #2, Jeff) is to
get find yourself a nice *pair* of Stanley #79s... And, if you're not in
a rush you should be able to find two 79s for the price of _either_ a 98
_or_ a 99 by itself."



------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi,

I always grind the point off the blades after setting then for a
fine shaving and marking the projection. Seems to work on all my
side rebates.

http://s86.photobucket.com/albums/k115/maddpete/Tool%20chest/?action=vi-
ew&current=DSC_0101.jpg

I have a pair of wooden ones that I have been meaning to get round to
sorting out, they have longer blades then the metal ones. But might not
be so good for sliding dovetails.

Pete

Peter Michael Maddex Mad Bad and Dangerous to Know WPS Workplace
Services Nottingham Trent University

-----Original Message----- From: oldtools-bounces@r... [mailto:oldtools-
bounces@r...us.law.cornell.edu] On Behalf Of Adam R. Maxwell Sent: 20
May 2012 21:17 To: oldtools porch Subject: [OldTools] side rebate planes
(possible WTB)

GGs,

My sliding dovetails always seem to need some tweaking, and a side
rebate plane seems the best tool for adjusting the angled sides of the
dado. The plane I have is a Record 2506S:

http://www.record-planes.com/77/record-no-2506s-side-rabbet-plane/

I've been wary of this thing ever since I got it, since the points of
the irons extend above the skate, and I'm always afraid of stabbing
myself with the one that's pointing upwards.

Well, it finally happened. The plane slipped towards the floor, and I
tried to catch it instead of letting it drop; that was a mistake, since
it hit the concrete anyway. The one-inch cut on my lower palm is fairly
shallow, but I could have easily slashed my wrist on this thing.

So here are a few questions:

1) Are wooden side rebates effective for sliding dovetails? It
   looks like the sole on some might be too wide to let it reach
   into the corner.

2) Is there an iron version that is safer? I actually wanted the Veritas
   side rebate, but they were out of stock when I needed one. Hence the
   2506 purchase from the MofA.

3) If wooden ones are effective, does anyone have a user pair that
   they'd be willing to sell?

thanks, Adam Port Angeles, WA

PS: the plane wasn't hurt by the fall, thank-you-very-much. If any of
    you are looking for a Record 2506S in good condition, let me know.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

On May 21, 2012, at 03:53 , "Maddex, Peter" <peter.maddex@n...> wrote:

> I always grind the point off the blades after setting then for a fine shaving
and marking the projection.
> Seems to work on all my side rebates.

As soon as the bleeding stopped yesterday, I did the same.
What a difference!  With the points no longer extending below
the skate, the plane doesn't grab and try to overturn anymore,
and grasping it is much safer.

Thanks to all for the advice on alternatives!  For the record,
my first choice was a Stanley #79 (pushmi-pullyu side rebate, Jeff)
but my tool provider couldn't find one.

It sounds like wooden side rebates are really not the thing to
use for sliding dovetails.  Indeed, the metal ones seem more
suited to cross grain work.  So no excuse for getting another
tool just yet...

Adam
Port Angeles, WA

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bloodletting with a 2506...

I remove the points on mine so that they don't project more than a 
smidgin below the 'skate'  The plane goes to the bottom of the rebate, 
and you can apply downward pressure to keep it tracking close to the 
sidewall and let it do its job.

Configured this way, there isn't any significant danger when handling it.

Richard Wilson
Yorkshireman Galoot
in Northumberland

On 20/05/2012 21:16, Adam R. Maxwell wrote:
> GGs,
>
> My sliding dovetails always seem to need some tweaking, and a side
> rebate plane seems the best tool for adjusting the angled sides of
> the dado.  The plane I have is a Record 2506S:
>
> http://www.record-planes.com/77/record-no-2506s-side-rabbet-plane/
>
> I've been wary of this thing ever since I got it, since the points
> of the irons extend above the skate, and I'm always afraid of
> stabbing myself with the one that's pointing upwards.
>
> Well, it finally happened.  The plane slipped towards the floor,
> and I tried to catch it instead of letting it drop; that was a
> mistake, since it hit the concrete anyway.  The one-inch cut on
> my lower palm is fairly shallow, but I could have easily slashed
> my wrist on this thing.
>
> So here are a few questions:
>
> 1) Are wooden side rebates effective for sliding dovetails?  It looks
>     like the sole on some might be too wide to let it reach into the
>     corner.
>
> 2) Is there an iron version that is safer?  I actually wanted the
>     Veritas side rebate, but they were out of stock when I needed one.
>     Hence the 2506 purchase from the MofA.
>
> 3) If wooden ones are effective, does anyone have a user pair that
>     they'd be willing to sell?
>
>

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Richard Wilson wrote:
> Bloodletting with a 2506...
>
> I remove the points on mine so that they don't project more than a smidgin
below the 'skate' The plane goes to the bottom of the rebate, and you can apply
downward pressure to keep it tracking close to the sidewall and let it do its
job.
>
> Configured this way, there isn't any significant danger when handling it.

In any case, they're SIDE rebate planes. Any cutting below the skate
is (simply) wrong, or at least outside the job description.

  BugBear

------------------------------------------------------------------------