Phil wrote <Derek Cohen has pretty strong views on Moxons and extended
tables. <Perhaps he'll chime in and correct my rehash of his words.

Thanks Phil.

I had wanted to write in a little about shooting boards as well, but
time got away from me. So I will say something about Moxon vises.

There are articles on my website on shooting boards:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Setting%20Up%20and%20Using%2-
0a%20Shooting%20Board4.html

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/ShootingforPerfection.html

This one lifts the game: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Run-
ningFencefortheShootingBoard.html

OK, Moxon vises ...

I am a big fan of the Benchcrafted hardware, and this includes the Moxon
screws, and a big fan of anything that comes out of the TFWW stable. The
Moxon is such a simple and easy to build tool that I believe you cannot
go wrong whatever you do - buy or build your own. When it comes to
design, however, I have some ideas that may conflict ...

The original article on my Moxon build is here:
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MoxonDovetailVise.html

I have cut a LOT of dovetails in the past 6 months especially, and this
has provided the opportunity to clarify some ideas about the Moxon. Here
are a couple of design considerations.

First off, I think it is a big mistake bevelling the Moxon chop,
as suggested in one of Chris Schwarz' blogs. This has been copied
now by many.

I struggle to see the reasoning in this bevel. It is a bad move.

I think that it is to make space to hold the saw more vertically (so as
to follow two lines at once). But if you need to do this it says that
your board is probably too low in the vise, or the vise is too low for
your bench.

The flat edge of the front chop is a valuable guide when clearing
out waste with a chisel. If you bevel it, you will lose the
reference surface.

Here I am use mine this way ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuidingaBench4_html_m26-
68e9e7.jpg

Lift the height of a board when sawing. It should not vibrate if
thick enough ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/HalfblindDovetailsinJarrah_html_-
1b83051.jpg

Nice clean, level floors ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuidingaBench4_html_m16-
7fdf7a.jpg

Secondly, I think that you may add a problem if you add a bench behind
the Moxon vise, as popularised in the BC plan. In addition to sawing,
the Moxon is used for transferring the tails to the pin board. To avoid
slicing up the chop with a marking knife, the pin board needs to be
raised up at least 1/2" above the chop. A bench behind the chop will
place the boards in line with the top of the chop. Goodbye chop http://-
i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Workbench%20and%20Workshop/Moxo-
n%20bench/Moxon7.jpg

To make raising the board easier and secure, the tail board needs to be
supported at this height. One of the fixtures I introduced some while
ago was the "I-beam", which has sandpaper as non-slip on both sides htt-
p://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Workbench%20and%20Workshop/-
Moxon%20bench/moxon8.jpg

To set the pin board at the ideal height, one needs a suitable spacer
(of, say, 1/2") http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MoxonDovetai-
lVise_html_m61190190.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Workbench%20and%20Worksh-
op/Moxon%20bench/moxon2.jpg

I got tired of putting the spacer in a safe place, so I attached it
with hingers .

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Workbench%20and%20Worksh-
op/Moxon%20bench/moxon9.jpg

It folds out of the way when not in use http://i13.photobucket.com/albu-
ms/a262/Derek50/Workbench%20and%20Workshop/Moxon%20bench/moxon10.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

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