So... Easiest way to put a 90 degree angle In brass stock is to remove
90 degrees worth of material, then bend the joint closed and solder
the joint.

Tools needed:A metal cutting saw. (preferably a jeweler's saw, but a
hacksaw would probably work as well.) A square file. (small and fine
with one safe side.) Available at all fine jewelry tool suppliers.

Solder. (don't get me started.)

So first job is a test cut.1. Using your saw, cut a kerf 90 degrees
across your stock and about 2/3 the way through your stock.

2. Using the kerf as a guide for your file start filing a V across your
   stock. It's important to keep the sides of the V equal in size. If
   you go too far on one side, you can re-align it by using your safe
   side on the large part of the V so the small side get filed until the
   sides match.

3. You're done filing when you've left just a thin strip of stock
   connecting the two sides of the V. This thin strip needs to be the
   same thickness across the stock, or your joint will not bend evenly.

4. Using the *shoulders* of your V cut as your guide, lay out the inside
   measurements for your workpiece, you can lay out the cuts needed to
   create your parts.(example: if the brass band needs to slide over
   1/4" x 1" wood sticks, then the shoulders of your Vs need to be 1"
   and 1/4" apart, plus a smidge to allow for movement.) I like to use
   the inside dimensions because they're more critical than the outside
   measurement for this application.

I'm sure there's some math you can do to decide where to make your saw
cuts, but for me it's faster to just do the work and adjust the position
of the V as I file, using the safe side of the file.

5. Once you have your Vs where you want them, you flux the inside of the
   V, bend each joint closed, heat the joint and flow solder into it. (I
   was taught to lay the joint on its end and place a tab of solder
   under it. When the brass is hot the solder will be sucked up into the
   joint.) Soft solder is fine, heat with a propane or mapp torch,
   remove the heat a few seconds after the solder flows to avoid
   damaging the thin strip of brass.

This method lets you do very precisely sized pieces with actual 90
degree bends, instead of messy jankety bent corners, which look terrible
unless theyre done on a large workpiece. (IMHO) I'm sorry I can't
provide pictures. I barely have time to type this.

Cheers, Wes

------------------------------------------------------------------------