Gary, The temp needed to melt titebond is not the only problem, after
you get the object apart, you still have the now waste titebond stuck on
to everything and you got to remove it! You have to heat it scrape all
the titebond (which is now plastic) off, which cannot be done! Hide glue
you can wash off with warm water and a rag, the wood returns to its pre-
glued state, raw wood. As the titebond cannot be completely removed, you
will have to attempt regluing to a glue, and you know that can't be
done. You will never get a strong joint and the joint will walk.People
have trouble using hide glue, and it is caused by one simple reason, the
joint must be completely true before glueing! Hide glue cannot be used
to fill up gaps or cover spacing problems, it just a glue, and not a
filler! Titebond, epoxy, and other plastic glues, allow mistakes to be
taken care of!

Jim Simmons

-----Original Message----- From: gary may
[mailto:garyallanmay@y...]Sent: Friday, March 02, 2012 12:51 PM To:
jimsim@w... Subject: RE: [OldTools] Hide Glue

Hi Jim: Way to go, Way to be! I love speculation as much as the next
guy, but there's really no substitute for old-fashioned detective work.
Thanks for the sharing. Seems to me that all one needs to remember is
170o, which is logical, not so? That's just about simmering temp in the
kitchen, and glue pot temp, hot enough to burn you again and again, but
not really not enough to require any medical intervention, barring
anything unforseen, like spilling glue (or something else) that temp
*on* yourself. There's a school of veneering that uses this
characteristic of the glue, paint the glue on the substrate and on the
veneer---when dry, iron on. You probably know all about this, being as
it's in every WW mag at least twice a year. But, from experience I can
say, it really does work, and it seems to last as well as, or better
than the old ways, main thing is, you don't need a vacuum pump to
compete with the big-wallet guys. best to you---gam in Olympia/Seattle,
who really knows?

If you were Einstein's father, we wouldn't have the bomb." Peggy Hill

--- On Fri, 3/2/12, jimsim@w... <jimsim@w...> wrote:

> From: jimsim@w... <jimsim@w...> Subject: RE: [OldTools] Hide Glue To:
> oldtools@r... Date: Friday, March 2, 2012, 3:39 AM To the list! Some
> more information the Original Titebond verses hide glue; I>
> constructed a joint using two pieces of 1/8=E2=80=9D thick scrap
> spruce using> titebond, let it set 8 days, and started trying to find
> to separate> the joint without doing damage to wood. Tried using a hot
> knife and> water, and I can tell you that will not work. A hot knife
> and hot> water will not separate titebond or allow you to remove it. I
> then> sent an email to Franklin Glue asking them if they knew of any
> way> that it could be done, My message and their answer follows;>
> ________________________________________ From: Jim Simmons
> [mailto:jimsim@w...]
>> Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2012 10:51 AM
> To: contechserv Subject: Titebond Original Wood Glue
>> Got a simple question; Is there any way to unglue/separate a joint>
>> when titebond has been used? I have been told that would separate>
>> using the same methods as you use when the joint has been made using>
>> hide glue.
> That is, using hot water and a hot knife. I have been assured the this
> can be done, but no one will show me how to do it, or explain the>
> exact method used. I assure you; this is not a b.s. question, I really
> need to know the> answer!
>> Thank you, Jim Simmons
> Clearfield, KY 40313 606-783-0902
> ----------------
>> Jim,
> Raising the glue joint temperature in excess of 170=C2=B0 F with a
> hair> dryer will soften the adhesive and reduce the bond strength. At
> that> point you should be able to begin prying the joint apart. You
> may have to go back and forth between heating and prying to complete
> the> process. The idea of using a hot knife in addition makes sense to
> me. Usually there is an initial release near the outside edge, then
> more heat is applied, then more> prying/releasing, then more heat,
> etc. We do not really have a> =E2=80=9Cspecific=E2=80=9D recommended
> method. We simply warn that whatever heat is applied may> cause damage
> to finishes on your wood or other items in the near> vicinity, so
> please be careful. Thank you, Bee
>> Bee Miller
> Technical Service Representative Construction Products Division
> Franklin International 2020 Bruck St. Columbus, OH 43207 614-445-1372
> --------------------
>> Remember, after you heat the joint and pry it apart, the glue will>
>> remain!
> Titebond is great wood glue, I use it every day, and will continue
> to> do so! However, I will not use it on any joint that might need to
> be undone.
>> Jim Simmons
> Clearfield, KY
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