Galoots Assembled,

Thank you all for your helpful suggestions, guidance, and gentle
admonitions. I began with the easiest approach and washed everything
thoroughly with hot water and liquid GoJo hand cleaner, using a
toothbrush and a grey nylon pad as necessary. In some spots the plating
was gone and in those I used 340 wet dry and mineral spirits to remove
the rust. Dried it carefully, then wiped it liberally with mineral
spirits/beeswax/BLO goo, then wiped it down carefully and oiled all of
the screws and such.

The two nickers were pretty pitted on the back sides, but I sharpened
them to 8000. I honed a 3/4" blade and then had at a bit of scrap
mahogany with fair success. Setting the blade so that the edge was level
with the two skates was tricky and not automatic as I had imagined given
my experience with the Record 044 plough plane.

I set the nickers down a bit and tried some cross grain work with
moderate success once I figured out I had them out too far to let the
blade cut effectively. At least now I have a better idea of how far they
should protrude.

These nickers are lozenge-shaped, and as I said badly pitted, are
replacements available?

While the rear tote is broken, it is tight and does not twist, pinch, or
move, so it stays for the time being. I had to shorten the screw holding
the front knob by about 1/16" to get it to tighten completely.

Three photos of the After photos can be found at:

_http://galootcentral.com/index.php?option=com_copperminevis&Itemid=2&p-
lacethumbnails&album=663_ (http://galootcentral.com/index.php?option=co-
m_copperminevis&Itemid=2&place=thumbnails&album=663)

Oh! What the heck is the slitter blade used for? I sharpened it to 8000
as well, but am not sure what to do with it.

Cheers, John

John M. Johnston "There is a fine line between hobby and mental
illness." Dave Barry
------------------------------------------------------------------------

----- Original Message ----- 
> Oh! What the heck is the slitter blade used for? I sharpened it to 
> 8000
> as well, but am not sure what to do with it.

Slit veneer?

Frank Sronce (Fort Worth Armadillo Works)

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------

On Thu, Feb 23, 2012 at 8:47 PM, <Sgt42RHR@a...> wrote:

>
> Oh!  What the heck is the slitter blade used for?  I sharpened it  to 8000
> as well, but am not sure what to do with it.
>

>From Blood & Gore, that internet Classic:
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan6.htm

Many folks have no idea what the slitting cutter is used for, nor are they
appreciative of what a clever and powerful little gizmo this thing is. It,
along with its pressed steel depth gauge, are usually MIA, but replacements
are fairly easy to find. Once you use the slitting cutter, you'll realize
just how cool it is, and your fingers will forever stay attached to your
hands since you won't have to resort to that dangerous spinning blade that
sticks up from a cast iron table to rip thin strips of wood. The slitting
cutter and depth stop are attached to the plane in a milled area located at
the right rear of the plane, just forward of the handle (earlier models
attach the slitting cutter over the extra long rear arm). The fence is used
to position how far into the wood the slitting cutter does its slitting
thing, and the depth stop controls how deeply into the wood the slitter
goes. With the slitting cutter extended below the stop, all it takes is a
few passes to cut a thin strip off a larger piece of wood (if the wood is
thick, you usually run the slitter from both faces). This function is very
useful for slicing beads from the wood so that you can use them to decorate
whatever your mind can imagine.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

It's for ripping free thin strips from a board. They could be veneer or
they could be upwards of 1/2" thick. Thicker means working from both
sides. Thinner may mean having the board down on a thicker board and
edges aligned. Just like you would use a cutting gauge if you were
making stringing for inlay=2C etc. I've used it to cut 1/8" thick
strips and it works OK but I found it worked better to cut a little
thick then with a block plane held upside down in the vice=2C I run the
strip back over the plane to finish things off. May have been due in
part to needing to flip the work piece over and cut half way from each
side. Leaves a little rib. Also good for gashing a knuckle if you grab
the plane and didn't put it back up behind the depth stop all the way
after use.

Rob Young

rwyoung@i...

> From: dilloworks@s... To: Sgt42RHR@a...=3B oldtools@r... Subject: Re:
> [OldTools] Stanley No. 46 cleaned and set up Date: Fri=2C 24 Feb 2012
> 10:14:24 -0600
> CC:>> ----- Original Message -----> > Oh! What the heck is the slitter
>    blade used for? I sharpened it to> > 8000
> > as well=2C but am not sure what to do with it.
>> Slit veneer? Frank Sronce (Fort Worth Armadillo Works)
>>>> >> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>>>> >> --------
> OldTools is a mailing list catering to the interests of hand tool
> aficionados=2C both collectors and users=2C to discuss the history=2C
> usage=2C value=2C location=2C availability=2C collectibility=2C and
> restoration of traditional handtools=2C especially woodworking tools.
>> To change your subscription options:
> http://ruckus.law.cornell.edu/mailman/listinfo/oldtools
>> To read the FAQ:
> http://swingleydev.com/archive/faq.html
>> OldTools archive: http://swingleydev.com/archive/ OldTools@r...
> http://ruckus.law.cornell.edu/mailman/listinfo/oldtools
                                          ------------------------------
                                          ------------------------------
                                          ------------

On Feb 24, 2012, at 8:19 AM, Kirk Eppler wrote:
>> (Quoting from) =46rom Blood & Gore, that internet Classic:
> http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan6.htm
> . . . your fingers will forever stay attached to your hands since you
>   won't have to resort to that dangerous spinning blade that sticks up
>   from a cast iron table to rip thin strips of wood. . . .

        Plus which, unlike the spinning, screaming finger-eater
        mentioned, or even its hand-tool equivalent, which can react to
        thin stock in unpredictable ways,it takes a kerf about as close
        to zero width as you can get. Tom Holloway

------------------------------------------------------------------------

It works well for cutting kite sticks too.  I recently used my 45 and 
slitter to cut a bunch of 1/4" X 3/16" kite sticks for a Webelo (Cub 
Scout) project. If you are only making one or two kites, a slitting 
gauge is good. For larger quantities, a slitter is more productive.

Tim
Wishing the rain would stop in NJ...

Frank Sronce wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
>> Oh! What the heck is the slitter blade used for? I sharpened it to 8000
>> as well, but am not sure what to do with it.
>
> Slit veneer?
>
> Frank Sronce (Fort Worth Armadillo Works)
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tim -Brilliant! Also darn you for adding something else to my
WISH_I_HAD_TIME_TO_DO list. I really=2C really enjoyed making my own
kites when I was a kid.

Rob Young

rwyoung@i...

> Date: Fri=2C 24 Feb 2012 13:03:05 -0500 From: tpendleton@g... To:
> dilloworks@s... Subject: Re: [OldTools] Stanley No. 46 cleaned
> and set up
> CC: Sgt42RHR@a...=3B oldtools@r...
>> It works well for cutting kite sticks too. I recently used my 45 and>
>> slitter to cut a bunch of 1/4" X 3/16" kite sticks for a Webelo (Cub>
>> Scout) project. If you are only making one or two kites=2C a
>> slitting> gauge is good. For larger quantities=2C a slitter is more
>> productive. Tim
> Wishing the rain would stop in NJ...
>> Frank Sronce wrote:
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> Oh! What the heck is the slitter blade used for? I sharpened it to
> >> 8000 as well=2C but am not sure what to do with it.
> >
> > Slit veneer?
> >
> > Frank Sronce (Fort Worth Armadillo Works)
> >
> >
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> --------
> OldTools is a mailing list catering to the interests of hand tool
> aficionados=2C both collectors and users=2C to discuss the history=2C
> usage=2C value=2C location=2C availability=2C collectibility=2C and
> restoration of traditional handtools=2C especially woodworking tools.
>> To change your subscription options:
> http://ruckus.law.cornell.edu/mailman/listinfo/oldtools
>> To read the FAQ:
> http://swingleydev.com/archive/faq.html
>> OldTools archive: http://swingleydev.com/archive/ OldTools@r...
> http://ruckus.law.cornell.edu/mailman/listinfo/oldtools
                                          ------------------------------
                                          ------------------------------
                                          ------------

Rob,

Just to nudge you closer to the precipice (the wind is stronger there), 
I used a Dover Publications reprint of a 1929 book titled, "25 Kites 
That Fly", by Leslie Hunt, for kite patterns.  (ISBN 0-486-22550-X)

I will be working on a couple of box kites with my 10 year old next. He 
has grasped how to use a set of dividers to create 120 and 60 degree 
angles for the triangular box kite and also for creating 90 and 45 
degree angles for the square box kite.  I am quite sure he was more 
excited about receiving his own sliding bevel gauge than he was with the 
math. 

Tim

Robert Young wrote:
> Tim - 
> Brilliant!  Also darn you for adding something else to my
WISH_I_HAD_TIME_TO_DO list.  I really, really enjoyed making my own kites when I
was a kid.
>
> Rob Young
>
> rwyoung@i...
>
>   
<snip>
>>
>> It works well for cutting kite sticks too.  I recently used my 45 and 
>> slitter to cut a bunch of 1/4" X 3/16" kite sticks for a Webelo (Cub 
>> Scout) project. If you are only making one or two kites, a slitting 
>> gauge is good. For larger quantities, a slitter is more productive.
>>
>> Tim
>> Wishing the rain would stop in NJ...
>>
>> Frank Sronce wrote:
>>     
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>       
>>>> Oh! What the heck is the slitter blade used for? I sharpened it to 8000
>>>> as well, but am not sure what to do with it.
>>>>         
>>> Slit veneer?
>>>
>>> Frank Sronce (Fort Worth Armadillo Works)
>>>
>>>       
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Kirk, thank you.  I read the B &G entry for the 46, but not for  the 45.  I 
only have one depth gauge with the plane, I'll have to see  if I can find 
another.  
 
This is really good to know as I was considering making a shaving box that  
has all kinds of thin-walled interior spaces.
 
Thank you again Kirk,
 
John
 
John M. Johnston
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental  illness." Dave Barry  

 
In a message dated 2/24/2012 10:20:01 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
eppler.kirk@g... writes:

On Thu, Feb 23, 2012 at 8:47 PM, <_Sgt42RHR@a... 
(mailto:Sgt42RHR@a...) > wrote:

Oh!  What the heck is the slitter blade used for?  I sharpened it  to 8000
as well, but am not sure what to do  with it.

>From Blood & Gore, that internet  Classic:
_http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan6.htm_ 
(http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan6.htm) 

Many  folks have no idea what the slitting cutter is used for, nor are they 
 appreciative of what a clever and powerful little gizmo this thing is. It, 
 along with its pressed steel depth gauge, are usually MIA, but 
replacements  are fairly easy to find. Once you use the slitting cutter, you'll
realize 
just  how cool it is, and your fingers will forever stay attached to your 
hands  since you won't have to resort to that dangerous spinning blade that 
sticks up  from a cast iron table to rip thin strips of wood. The slitting 
cutter and  depth stop are attached to the plane in a milled area located at 
the right  rear of the plane, just forward of the handle (earlier models 
attach the  slitting cutter over the extra long rear arm). The fence is used to 
position  how far into the wood the slitting cutter does its slitting thing, 
and the  depth stop controls how deeply into the wood the slitter goes. 
With the  slitting cutter extended below the stop, all it takes is a few passes 
to cut a  thin strip off a larger piece of wood (if the wood is thick, you 
usually run  the slitter from both faces). This function is very useful for 
slicing beads  from the wood so that you can use them to decorate whatever 
your mind can  imagine. 

------------------------------------------------------------------------