On Jan 15, 2008, at 11:09 PM, Eric Seidlitz wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Bottom line up front: What bits do you use with a bit brace?  
> Sub-questions:
>
> 1. Are some types of bits better for slow (hand) boring and others  
> better for fast (power tool) boring?

	Interesting question.  I think it breaks down into two parts:
		- drilling wood or metal
		- using hand tools or power tools

	Wood will tolerate being drilled by a lot of different types of bits.   
The only ones that I found to be unsuitable are the ones designed for  
metal only.  These resemble the common twist drill but have a much  
shallower point.   In fact, they look like the bit has been snapped  
off.  There is a type of twist drill with an elongated point that is  
designed for wood, and I really like them.  Refer to this drive-by:

http://people.iarc.uaf.edu/~cswingle/archive/get.phtml? 
message_id=160436&submit_thread=1#message

	As for hand or powered and the relation to speed, remember that speed  
kills.  I think that the ability to squeeze a trigger and get a drill  
bit to revolve at high speed is WAY overdone.  Take a drill bit and  
chuck it into a power drill, drill a hole in a test piece while timing  
it, use the same bit in a hand drill and compare times.  You may be  
surprised that the hand drill will win.  My man Charlie Driggs tells me  
that it is related to "feed speed".  Drills are designed to feed into  
the material they are drilling at an optimum speed.  I can't say what  
that speed is, but my experience tells me that it much closer to a hand  
drill than a power drill.

	I have messed around a couple of times by trying an auger bit in a  
power drill and never liked it.  I think  it best to keep the augers  
with the braces.  You will most likely need various types of auger bits  
to handle all your drilling needs.  Some of the Cooke's Patent (Gedge)  
type bits for drilling end grain.  Some solid core for rough drilling.   
Jennings pattern for most boring needs.  Make sure you have fine,  
medium, and course threads on the lead screws so you can effectively  
drill in hardwoods, softwoods, and green wood.  You'll need some spoon  
bits for your askew boring.

> 2. Can you use standard bits (short-ish, round shank) in a bit brace  
> with good effect? Even for masonry or metal?

	Yes.  Like I say, the slower speed may be advantageous.  You will need  
a brace that can effectively hold a twist drill because the masonry and  
metal drilling bits I am familiar with all have that pattern.  A  
Millers Falls Holdall chuck will work for the larger sizes, as will the  
Lion chuck, and a Yankee.  Try one of each.  Small jaw chucks are  
available with a tang for use in a brace, and they can be used for  
smaller size bits.  I find it more effective to use a hand drill for  
the smaller size drills and leave the brace for the larger sizes.   
Actually, you should have  a small hand drill for  really small bits.   
Of course, you need a really big brace, say 14", for the really big  
bits.  Twist drills are available with a tang and everyone should have  
a set.

> 3. What about expansive bits?

	I have never found an occasion where an expansive bit looked like the  
solution to a problem that a fixed bit couldn't solve.  I will keep  
looking for such an occasion because I have a bitchin' set of Clark's  
Patent Bits.  I know I need them.  So do you.

> 4. What about forstner and spade bits? I get the impression from the  
> Archives and from googling that these are more for power tools.

	A brace will handle a Forstner just fine.  You can make some nice  
flat-bottomed holes or intersecting holes with a Forstner in a brace;  
you should have a set.  A set of center bits is just about as nice and  
you should have a set as backup.  I have tried a spade bit in a brace  
and it worked satisfactorily.  I think some Windsor chairmakers are  
doing this.  You should have a full set of spade bits.

>
> I've had mixed luck using my great-grandpa's Millers Falls bit brace  
> (772-101, if you're interested), and figure it's a combination of  
> using the wrong bits or using dull bits. The auger bits that came with  
> my bit brace are probably in need of a good tune-up (or replacement).
>
>

	The 772 is a great brace.  With a Lion chuck it should hold all manner  
of bits.  You are probably right to suspect the sharpness of the bits.   
It is always an epiphany to see the difference a sharp tool makes.

	In summary, you need all  sorts of drill bits and all sorts of braces  
and hand drills.  You will also need plenty of drill indexes to keep  
them organized and in good shape.

Regards,
Steve

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