As Nathaniel points out, avoiding blotching is easy. What's
harder is avoiding the blotch AND getting a dark color. I've 
been able to do this by first sealing with a conditioner (shellac,
MinWax, whatever) and then applying several layers of oil-based 
stain, almost as a glaze. (The problem is that the sealing works
against getting things dark.) I apply the stain liberally, and then use
a 
rag, not to wipe off excess, but to distribute it, by letting 
the rag become saturated. You're going to obscure the grain
somewhat, and are, in effect, doing some graining of your own
with the glazing, but if you're patient it can be done.  In my
case - using 2-byes from the lumber yard for a table top - I 
had to experiment mixing my own color from several of the same
brand. (Of course the top warped all to heck, but back then
I didn't know any better.  So I had a nicely colored wavy top.)

Tom Ellis
Dayton OH
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldtools-bounces@r... 
> [mailto:oldtools-bounces@r...] On Behalf Of 
> N.A. Mitkowski
> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 7:47 AM
> To: oldtools@r...
> Subject: Re: [OldTools] The Pine Blotch
> 
> Am I missing something here?  Correct me if I am because I have found 
> blotch an easy problem to eradicate.
> 
> When I started working with pine I stained it, got awful blotches.  A 
> book told me to apply a stain conditioner or boiled linseed oil, let 
> it sit 5-10 minutes and then apply the stain.  I ran a test with no 
> conditioner, minwax stain conditioner and BLO.  The absence of 
> conditioner was a nightmare.  Conditioner worked like a charm, BLO 
> also worked but the stain was too light for my liking.
> 
> I have never gotten blotch again.

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