With two somewhat active children plus wifey and me, our front hall  
closet
had become a jumbled pile of shoes, so I became determined to whack  
together
a shoe organizer - just a simple 18" tall set of three shelves,  
essentially.

I had some old used 1x12 pine boards that had been painted white in a
previous life, and I decided they would suffice.  I was thinking much  
more
of functionality than beauty - the finished product, after all, would be
sitting on the floor in the back of a coat closet, covered with shoes.   
So I
didn't really care if it was a bit, shall we say, "rustic".

Anyhow, I used my Stanley #80 (cabinet scraper, Jeff) to scrape the  
paint
off, and as I did so, I noticed that it came out looking like the
"distressed" or "reclaimed barn wood" furniture you see in the stores -  
that
kind of weatherbeaten whitewash look, with grain and knots showing  
through.
So rather than completely stripping off the paint, as had been my  
original
intention, I just removed enough so that you could see the grain of the  
wood
and some knots, with some paint still adhering, for that "weatherbeaten"
look.

Simple dado and half-lap construction would suffice.  I used a  
[transmission
garbled] to size the boards.

I realized that I have a Stanley #71 (router plane, Jeff) that I bought  
many
years ago.  When I first got it, I had fooled around with it and  
couldn't
get decent results, since I really had no clue what I was doing, so it  
went
to the back of the cabinet.  I thought that perhaps now that I've got a
little bit of a better feel for using hand tools, and maybe half a clue  
what
I'm doing, maybe I'd try it again.

Honed the straight cutter as sharp as I could (which is to say sharp  
enough
to slice my flesh pretty well, but not quite sharp enough to get a  
really
nice cut in actual wood), and HEY!  This thing WORKS!  Made short work  
of
producing some lovely, very flat-bottomed dadoes.  I'll definitely be
reaching for that tool again when the need arises!

Also finally had an excuse to use my Lie-Nielsen #98 & #99 (right and  
left
side rabbet planes, Jeff) that I got for Christmas last year.  One dado  
was
a smidge too tight, and they did the job quite nicely, right out of the  
box.

I used cut nails and glue to hold the whole thing together; I figured  
the
cut nails would help to give it that "rustic" weatherbeaten/old
barn/reclaimed lumber look.

Once done and sitting on my bench, I concluded that it was the
second-ugliest thing I have ever made.

I just put it in the closet this morning, and it actually looks better  
in
there.  SWMBO is satisfied, so hey - good enough, I figure.  Plus the  
shoes
are much more organized, and the floor of the closet is reclaimed!

Question for anyone: when using the routah and/or side rabbets, how do  
y'all
go about preventing blowout on the far side of the dado?  I'm thinking  
that
if I had done a better job of scoring the sides first, or perhaps don't  
go
all the way out, turn the tool around and come at it from the other  
side? 

-----------------------------------------
Bill Taggart
-----------------------------------------

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Bill, how 'bout a pic? I've got the same issue, but with 3 more kids
and a wife how appears to hold stock in every shoe maker on the globe
- my problem is on the back porch (we've at least trained the little -
and not so little - buggers to remove shoes before entering the
premises...

She went out and bought a gadget that was mostly plastic - it didn't
survive its own assembly instructions. I want wood... wood I say ..
not more plastic in my world!

Any others solved a similar dilema and have a pic to share? My
creative juices are running a little low with the start of school and
both my wife and I starting new jobs ...

cheers all,

Jim E #2 in Wisconsin

On 9/12/05, Bill Taggart <wtaggart@c...> wrote:
> With two somewhat active children plus wifey and me, our front hall close 
t
> had become a jumbled pile of shoes, so I became determined to whack toget 
her
> a shoe organizer - just a simple 18" tall set of three shelves, essential 
ly.
> 
> I had some old used 1x12 pine boards that had been painted white in a
> previous life, and I decided they would suffice.  I was thinking much mor 
e
> of functionality than beauty - the finished product, after all, would be
> sitting on the floor in the back of a coat closet, covered with shoes.  S 
o I
> didn't really care if it was a bit, shall we say, "rustic".
> 
> Anyhow, I used my Stanley #80 (cabinet scraper, Jeff) to scrape the paint
> off, and as I did so, I noticed that it came out looking like the
> "distressed" or "reclaimed barn wood" furniture you see in the stores - t 
hat
> kind of weatherbeaten whitewash look, with grain and knots showing throug 
h.
> So rather than completely stripping off the paint, as had been my origina 
l
> intention, I just removed enough so that you could see the grain of the w 
ood
> and some knots, with some paint still adhering, for that "weatherbeaten"
> look.
> 
> Simple dado and half-lap construction would suffice.  I used a [transmiss 
ion
> garbled] to size the boards.
> 
> I realized that I have a Stanley #71 (router plane, Jeff) that I bought m 
any
> years ago.  When I first got it, I had fooled around with it and couldn't
> get decent results, since I really had no clue what I was doing, so it we 
nt
> to the back of the cabinet.  I thought that perhaps now that I've got a
> little bit of a better feel for using hand tools, and maybe half a clue w 
hat
> I'm doing, maybe I'd try it again.
> 
> Honed the straight cutter as sharp as I could (which is to say sharp enou 
gh
> to slice my flesh pretty well, but not quite sharp enough to get a really
> nice cut in actual wood), and HEY!  This thing WORKS!  Made short work of
> producing some lovely, very flat-bottomed dadoes.  I'll definitely be
> reaching for that tool again when the need arises!
> 
> Also finally had an excuse to use my Lie-Nielsen #98 & #99 (right and lef 
t
> side rabbet planes, Jeff) that I got for Christmas last year.  One dado w 
as
> a smidge too tight, and they did the job quite nicely, right out of the b 
ox.
> 
> I used cut nails and glue to hold the whole thing together; I figured the
> cut nails would help to give it that "rustic" weatherbeaten/old
> barn/reclaimed lumber look.
> 
> Once done and sitting on my bench, I concluded that it was the
> second-ugliest thing I have ever made.
> 
> I just put it in the closet this morning, and it actually looks better in
> there.  SWMBO is satisfied, so hey - good enough, I figure.  Plus the sho 
es
> are much more organized, and the floor of the closet is reclaimed!
> 
> Question for anyone: when using the routah and/or side rabbets, how do y' 
all
> go about preventing blowout on the far side of the dado?  I'm thinking th 
at
> if I had done a better job of scoring the sides first, or perhaps don't g 
o
> all the way out, turn the tool around and come at it from the other side?
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> Bill Taggart
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> OldTools is a mailing list catering to the interests of hand tool
> aficionados, both collectors and users, to discuss the history, usage,
> value, location, availability, collectibility, and restoration of
> traditional handtools, especially woodworking tools.
> 
> To read the FAQ, unsubscribe, or change email options, use the web
> interface at:     http://www.brendlers.net/oldtools/oldtools.html
> 
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>

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On 12 Sep., Bill Taggart admitted:

> I just put it in the closet this morning, and it actually looks better in
> there.

Hmm.  I've been told several times that some of the things I've made
would look better in the closet.  Glad I'm not the only one...

Norm
   in Fort Collins, Colorado

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Bill Taggart asked:

"Question for anyone: when using the routah and/or side rabbets, how do
y'all
go about preventing blowout on the far side of the dado?  I'm thinking that
if I had done a better job of scoring the sides first, or perhaps don't go
all the way out, turn the tool around and come at it from the other side?" 

I just finished similarly fine tuning dadoes with a router plane and side
rabbet plane. I have found that the trick to preventing blow out at the end
of the dadoes is to always stop short and start on the other side. Stopping
just an inch or two short (3 - 6 cm for the rest of the world) is enough.
The router needs to be carefully stabilized at each end of the dado to
prevent tipping and gouging just at the end. Short passes with the side
rabbet plane will assure that you don't end up with a dado wider at one end
than the other. 

For me, there is great satisfaction in fine tuning a dado or rabbet with
these two tools. It lets me pretend to be an actual craftsman for a few
minutes. 

Back to my hammock under the porch - and will someone put a little wax on
their rockers - you're squealing.

Alan N. Graham

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> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Graham [mailto:ang1235@s...] 

> I just finished similarly fine tuning dadoes with a router 
> plane and side rabbet plane. I have found that the trick to 
> preventing blow out at the end of the dadoes is to always 
> stop short and start on the other side. Stopping just an inch 
> or two short (3 - 6 cm for the rest of the world) is enough. 
> The router needs to be carefully stabilized at each end of 
> the dado to prevent tipping and gouging just at the end. 
> Short passes with the side rabbet plane will assure that you 
> don't end up with a dado wider at one end than the other. 

And another quick question:

What is the proper and preferred method for removing the waste with a  
router
and getting the dado to the finished depth?

In my case, since I was working with old, dry pine boards, what I did  
was
make parallel saw kerfs at the appropriate width and full depth, and I  
set
the router to the full finished depth of cut, then just plowed out the  
waste
in between the saw kerfs.  Since it was old, dry pine, the waste just  
came
popping and flying out in big chunks, and the router left a pretty nice,
smooth, flat-bottomed dado.   

It occurred to me that if I were using something like oak or maple or
cherry, this method likely wouldn't work, and I would instead have to  
take
the waste out more gradually in several passes.  But then that seems to  
me
like it would require a bunch of fiddling with the plane, and also I  
would
worry about repeatability and getting the depth of the dadoes all the  
same -
unless you made passes through each dado at each depth setting, which  
could
mean clamping and unclamping boards...

- Bill

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i didn't finish it with a router, but i made a seat with reinforcing 
battens for my son's tree swing by kerfing tenonsaw cuts, then paring 
down the waste until i got a flat bottom.  not pretty, but flat.  then 
fitted in the battens, glued and screwed, then finished the whole thing 
with danish oil.  so far, so good.

a router would have helped clean it up, and would have made the last 
quarter or so inch a bit less touchy.  one's on my wtt or wtb list...

best,
bill
felton, ca

On Sep 12, 2005, at 5:02 PM, Bill Taggart wrote:
> And another quick question:
>
> What is the proper and preferred method for removing the waste with a 
> router
> and getting the dado to the finished depth?

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At 08:02 PM 9/12/05, Bill Taggart wrote:

>What is the proper and preferred method for removing the waste with a router
>and getting the dado to the finished depth?
>
>In my case, since I was working with old, dry pine boards, what I did was
>make parallel saw kerfs at the appropriate width and full depth, and I set
>the router to the full finished depth of cut, then just plowed out the waste

My question is, if you have the kerfs cut, why not take a chisel to 
knock out the waste and then clean it up with the router, rabbet or dado plane?

Sure seems a heck of a lot quicker to me?  Unless you have boards 
with grain going in 19 directions..........

Tony

                         Olde River Hard Goods
                             350 West Catawissa Street
                               Nesquehoning PA 18240
                                         570-669-9421
               The best old tool store in Pennsylvania!
                     http://www.oldetoolshop.com  

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Bill Taggart wrote:

> In my case, since I was working with old, dry pine boards, what I did
> was make parallel saw kerfs at the appropriate width and full depth,
> and I set the router to the full finished depth of cut, then just
> plowed out the waste in between the saw kerfs.  Since it was old, dry
> pine, the waste just came popping and flying out in big chunks, and
> the router left a pretty nice, smooth, flat-bottomed dado.
> 

I chisel out the waste and then clean up with the 71 router plane. I saw
the sides of the dado with a backsaw that has a depth gage/fence
attached so I use the bottoms of the saw kerfs as a guide for depth when
I'm chiseling out the waste, i.e. I leave some waste to remove with the
router plane. On the ends, to avoid blowout, I mark the bottom of the
dado on the edge of the board with a cutting gage. I then place a chisel
bevel/bezel down on the gage line and cut a ramp on the ends of the dado.
****************************
Tom Price (tomprice03@g...)
Will Work For Tools
The Galoot's Progress Old Tools site is at:
http://homepage.mac.com/galoot_9/galtprog.html

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Bill sends up a project report:

> With two somewhat active children plus wifey and me, our front hall
> closet had become a jumbled pile of shoes, so I became determined
> to whack together a shoe organizer - just a simple 18" tall set of
> three shelves, essentially

which promts Jim to ask:

> Any others solved a similar dilema and have a pic to share? My 
> creative juices are running a little low with the start of school
> and both my wife and I starting new jobs ...

Indeed.  I've made three of these now, one for our front
closet, and others for relatives.  It's a pigeon hole
storage thing for hats/mitts/scarves/gloves.  It got to
the point where any attempt to acquire something from the
top shelf of the closet resulted in an avalanche of stuff
falling on yer head.  Perhaps you Galoots from sunny climes
won't have such problems, but when you have Winter and Kids
well, nuff said.

http://wdynamic.com/galoots/4images/data/media/60/100_3119.JPG

The outside frame is 1X12 pine (junk-wood from the local
home centre) through dovetailed.  Not that that is any kind
of "qualification"; these DTs are *ahem*, serviceable, not
decorative in any way. Centre shelf is also 1X12 pine, dado'd
into the ends.  The dividers were 1/4 hardboard (from a
dumpster) dado'd into the top/bottom and the middle shelf.
I got to use my 1/4 and 7/8 inch dado planes on these things.
Dado planes are great fun to use, and they're not too expensive.

-- 
Darrell
Oakville ON
Wood Hoarder, Blade Sharpener, and Occasional Tool User

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>>What is the proper and preferred method for removing the waste with a 
>>router
>>and getting the dado to the finished depth?
> My question is, if you have the kerfs cut, why not take a chisel to knock 
> out the waste and then clean it up with the router, rabbet or dado plane?
>

This is the trick I used last year on the log cabin, and I needed to cut
a short, wide, and deep dado in a log above a door or window...anything from
9/16" deep to 4" deep, about 36" wide, and only 6" long - across the grain 
of
the log.  There were also narrower dados for a beam pocket, about 5.5" wide.

Multiple saw cuts were made (don't ask how) and then knocked out with a 
hammer.
This left some wood remaining in most cases, which was usually removed with 
a
chisel and hammer - we're talking black-and-yellow-plastic Stanley's 
usually, not very
sharp.  They did the job, though, as we weren't going for a very flat 
surface anyway.

There were a few oohs and ahs when I pulled out the 3" framing 
chisel/near-slick.
This would flatten the bottom and remove all the debris with a single 
pass..... 

-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.21/96 - Release Date: 9/10/2005

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Bill says...
unless you made passes through each dado at each depth setting, which could
mean clamping and unclamping boards...

 Think Holdfasts, maker of your choice, I haven't used a clamp to hold
something to my bench (well almost nothing) since I got my holdfasts from
the eminent PK of the frozen North...
 roy

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Bill Taggart wrote:
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Alan Graham [mailto:ang1235@s...] 
> And another quick question:
> 
> What is the proper and preferred method for removing the waste with a router
> and getting the dado to the finished depth?
> 
> In my case, since I was working with old, dry pine boards, what I did was
> make parallel saw kerfs at the appropriate width and full depth, and I set
> the router to the full finished depth of cut, then just plowed out the waste
> in between the saw kerfs.

In harder woods, a few quick passes with a suitably sized firmer
chisel, bevel down, stopping a coupla' mm short of full depth
(a check with the router, which is (of course) already set
for the full depth).

Then finish with the router (#71, Jeff)

    BugBear

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Bill Taggart asked "What is the proper and preferred method for removing the
waste with a router and getting the dado to the finished depth?"

 

I first use a sharp knife to score the outer sides of the dado, the deeper
the better. Then a chisel to create a "fence" for a backsaw to cut, and to
do so to the required depth. I chisel out the waste TOWARDS the sides. Only
then do I turn to a #71 router plane to remove remaining waste and flatten
the botom of the dado. A #79 side rabbet plane is useful for resizing the
width of the dado.

Here is a link to a recent discussion on the WoodNet forum inwhich a few of
use posted pictures of the sequences involved in cutting dados with chisels,
etc.

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat
php?Cat=&Number=1835262&page=10&view=collapsed&sb=5&o 

or http://tinyurl.com/b6kyw 

Regards from Perth

Derek Cohen

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The method that I've always used (when I don't have a dado plane the  
right
size) is to use a backsaw to cut the sides of the dado. I clamp a scrap  
of
wood to the blade to act as a depth stop if I'm doing a lot of them.  
Then I
hog out the waste with a chisel, and clean up the bottom with a router
plane. Depending on the use, the bottom can be a bit rough - If its  
never
going to show, and doesn't matter, I'm not especially careful when  
hogging,
so there may be some tear out etc. I still clean out the bottom with the
router plane to make sure that there are no high spots....

My preferred method is to design so that I can use one of my planes.  
They
have depth stops built in, are the right width, and are the quickest way  
to
make dadoes or grooves. For woods that tend to cause drift, I clamp or  
tack
(maybe hot glue) a batten to use as a guide...

James J.B.N. DuPrie

-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Cohen [mailto:derekcohen@i...] 
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2005 9:49 AM
To: oldtools
Cc: wtaggart@c...
Subject: RE:[oldtools] Actually made something and rediscovered old  
tools

Bill Taggart asked "What is the proper and preferred method for removing  
the
waste with a router and getting the dado to the finished depth?"

 

I first use a sharp knife to score the outer sides of the dado, the  
deeper
the better. Then a chisel to create a "fence" for a backsaw to cut, and  
to
do so to the required depth. I chisel out the waste TOWARDS the sides.  
Only
then do I turn to a #71 router plane to remove remaining waste and  
flatten
the botom of the dado. A #79 side rabbet plane is useful for resizing  
the
width of the dado.

Here is a link to a recent discussion on the WoodNet forum inwhich a few  
of
use posted pictures of the sequences involved in cutting dados with  
chisels,
etc.

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat
php?Cat=3D&Number=3D1835262&page=3D10&view=3Dcollapsed&sb=3D5&o=3D

or http://tinyurl.com/b6kyw 

Regards from Perth

Derek Cohen

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"how do y'all go about preventing blowout on the far side of the dado? "

okay.... so I'm a day late... but, for a change, I actually have an answer 
that I've tested and know to work: clamp a scrap piece of similar-thickness 
stock to the far side of the board as you cut the dado. The blowout will 
happen, but it'll be blowing out the scrapwood and leaving the main board in 
good shape. Works whether you're using *real* tools or killing electrons.

I've done the business of scoring the far side with a knife, too. Works 
fine... but your chance of error is higher. Likewise for coming back in from 
other direction. And I'm always in favor of simpler and less prone to error. 
I makes lots of error. I have a whole pile of error in my firewood bin....

Dave Broman
one-a those Kokomo galoots 

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aficionados, both collectors and users, to discuss the history, usage, 
value, location, availability, collectibility, and restoration of 
traditional handtools, especially woodworking tools. 

To read the FAQ, unsubscribe, or change email options, use the web 
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cybro@s... wrote:
> "how do y'all go about preventing blowout on the far side of the dado? "

Knife the far side AND chisel chamfer. Then it can (pretty much)
only blow out on the last stroke, and even that's unlikely.

Good ol' ASCII art.

The dots indicate the desired width, and are knifed.

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    BugBear

------------------------------------------------------------------------
OldTools is a mailing list catering to the interests of hand tool
aficionados, both collectors and users, to discuss the history, usage, 
value, location, availability, collectibility, and restoration of 
traditional handtools, especially woodworking tools. 

To read the FAQ, unsubscribe, or change email options, use the web 
interface at:     http://www.brendlers.net/oldtools/oldtools.html

OldTools Archive: http://www.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu/~cswingle/archive/