GG
Not wanting to take any work away from Steve Knight or Crown Plane, but
I thought that making a compass plane for chair seats would be
something I could handle. I have used the Crown and it does a fine
job. The little ball on the back is comfortable and may be worth
duplicating, although I did not and am not having a problem.
I found a small smoother for $20 - 8" long by 2" wide with a 1-1/2"
double blade - (single blade will work fine). I curved the sole front
to back so that the center is about 1-1/8" below the ends using a
b*nds*w, but a frame saw would work too. My curve is weighted towards
the back so that the toe is 1-1/4", the center is 2", and the heel is
1/2". I then curved the curved sole side-to-side so that the center is
less than 1/8" below the edges using a 60-1/2 block plane to facet,
then remove the facets, ad finitum. I then marked the blade to the
curve with the magic marker-awl trick, ground the end of the edge flat
to follow the curve, then took off a lot of metal to get the bevel. I
made the curve of the the blade a little tighter than the side-to-side
curve of the bottom to give it a mild scrub effect. I didn't hone the
edge, but used it straight from the grinder. This puppy really removes
wood (basswood in the 2 seats I have made so far) - these are the
dipping size Fritos - and I have made the 2 chair seats without using a
scorp first in about 15 minutes each. The curve easily makes a chair
seat that is 7/8" deep across a 15" wide seat - it will go deeper yet,
and you get deeper still by altering the curves a bit.
You can do most of the work with the plane set rank, then pull the
blade in a bit and do a finer job. I managed to get a Crown travisher
so that is as far as I went with the plane, but with patience and a
couple of more re-settings of the blade, I am sure you could get the
finish very nice, ready for sandpaper. Sure the sole will wear, but it
has a couple more re-shapings in it, and then I can make another one.
I was lucky to find this little plane as it is cherry and very pretty.
I had never re-worked a plane before and once I figured what I wanted
to do, the job took about 30 minutes for both directions of curve and
another 20 minutes on the blade - it worked great right out of the
chute. I wouldn't go any longer than 8" for the plane (the crown is 6"
IIRC), although up to about 1-3/4" on the blade would work well I think.
Thanks to my buddy Croxton Gordon, master chair maker, for helping with
the dimensions of the curves.
Ed Minch
Leaving overcast Delawhere for 2 weeks in Italy (Lake Como and Luca) in
about 2 hours!!!!!! Will be looking for tools like the Peugeot Freres
try plane I found in Northeast France.
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