I also use just stops when planing. I let a 1" wide dado into my planing
bench and screwed in a 3/4" wide piece of hard maple that it extends just
under 1/4" above the surface. This works well in all but 2 cases.

When working with tall boards, there is a tendency for the board to tip up
at the far end when the plane gets close to the stop. I have found that
just putting a loose piece of scrap about 1" tall between the stop and the
board handles this. Same when starting work on a board when the underside
is convex and tends to lift above the stop when working the end away from
the stop.

When doing lengthwise rabbits, I clamp a stop the full length of the work.
There is just to much lateral pressure at all points along the work to use
anything less than a full planing stop.

When I am working a board, particularly jointing and thicknessing, I lift
the board to look at the gauge marks a lot, both sides. This just would not
be possible if the board was held down.

Brent

----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher S. Swingley" <cswingle@i...>
> * Scott Murman <smurman@s...> wrote:
> > so what is the advantage here over using a tail vise with bench dogs?
> > rigs that leave the board free to jump off the table drive me nuts
> > personally, and both of these would.
>                          ++ <--- additional stop
>     ++                   ++
>     ||+---------------------+
>     ||| board to plane      |
>     ||+---------------------+
>     ++